Do-it-yourself electric warm floor: step-by-step instructions with photos

Installation of wiring under the floor

When you plan to install electrical wiring in a house from scratch, it often becomes a question of choosing the installation method. Everyone wants to do all this with a minimum of effort and as efficiently as possible.

In other articles on our site, we have already considered the options for hidden and open wiring for different options for building materials. In this article we will take a more detailed look at the rules for installing hidden wiring under a layer of screed.

This option has recently become increasingly popular, because when replacing the screed, the rough work of chiselling the walls is significantly reduced.

Advantages and disadvantages

The main advantages of this method of laying electrical cables include:

Increased level of safety compared to installing wiring in the wall. Any accidental damage to the line associated with driving in nails, dowels and other fasteners, which is accompanied by the use of a drill, jackhammer or grinder, is excluded.
The total amount of cable required to organize the network is reduced. A lot more wires are required to run in the wall.
You don't have to be a qualified specialist to handle the task yourself. Difficulties can arise only when placing the cable inside a corrugated or metal pipe.
The junction boxes are located near the wall or at the bottom, which eliminates the possibility of cable breakage.
There is no need to chisel the walls, apply a thick layer of plaster or perform other finishing work.

Installing wires on the floor allows you to get rid of wall slitting.
Floor wiring scares people for the following reasons:

Serious difficulties when performing repair work or when it is necessary to replace the electrical cable. Sooner or later the chain may break. It is almost impossible to find the emergency area on your own, so you will have to dismantle the system and lay a new wire. However, the problem can be avoided if you follow the rules and recommendations for installing floor wiring. For example, you should make sure that the cable placed in the pipe moves freely through it. Before pulling out the cable, tie a strong rope or wire to the far end so that you can then easily pull the new wire into the pipe.
The cost of the work increases due to the need to purchase corrugation, which is not needed when installing in walls, when the cable is hidden inside the groove or under a thick layer of plaster.

With floor installation, replacement becomes more complicated and the cost of work increases
. There are only two disadvantages, but the first is easily eliminated if you follow the installation technology flawlessly.

Surface preparation

First step. We dismantle the old floor covering and screed. When laying a film heated floor, the old screed, if it is in good condition, does not need to be dismantled. If you install a cable system, you will have to get rid of the tie. Thoroughly clean the surface from dust and dirt.

Second step. We lay a layer of waterproofing material. Traditionally, polyethylene film is used, but you can choose other insulation if you wish. It is important that the moisture-proof material extends approximately 100-120 mm onto the walls.

Third step. We attach a damper tape to the wall along the perimeter of the base. Thanks to it, it will be possible to compensate for the thermal expansion of the system during heating. We carefully trim off the excess waterproofing and damper tape.

Fourth step. We lay a thermal insulation layer. Thanks to it, loss of thermal energy through the base will be eliminated. Choose insulation taking into account the location of the room, the type of base and the intended purpose of the heating system.

If you plan to use the system as an addition to the main heating, thermal insulation can be done using polyethylene foam equipped with a reflective foil layer. Additionally, the material will take on the function of a substrate for a heated floor.

If there is a heated room on the lower floor, it is best to install thermal insulation using expanded polystyrene sheets. The thickness of the material is 2-5 cm. Another insulator with a similar thickness will do.

When installing a heating system in a previously unheated room, for example, on a veranda or balcony, the thermal insulation layer must be more thorough. For example, 10 cm insulation with polystyrene foam or mineral wool of similar thickness is suitable.

Fifth step. We lay a reinforcing mesh on the insulation. If desired, you can add microfiber and plasticizer to the screed solution. This improvement in the composition will make it possible to do without additional reinforcement.

Requirements and standards of the PUE

Laying cables in the floor is officially permitted by the 7th edition of the PUE and refers to hidden wiring. In Chapter 2.1 of these rules it is noted that when forming cable routes, they can be used

round pipes, boxes of various types with a rectangular cross-section, as well as flexible metal or other fireproof hoses;
it is possible to lay it directly in the structure of the building structure in a groove formed for this purpose, followed by coating with putty or plaster;
It is permissible to lay wires into the structure of the structure under a layer of concrete directly at the factory during its manufacture.

To connect wires, you can use crimping, screw clamps of various types, and soldering. In places where the splice is formed, an installation supply of cable should be provided, sufficient to make at least one additional connection. According to the requirements of paragraph 2.1.23, the connection points must be accessible, allowing repair or maintenance to be carried out. Further, paragraph 2.1.24 puts forward the requirement that there are no mechanical impacts on the connection areas.

Installation can be carried out using either a flexible multi-wire cable or a rigid single-wire cable. The conductors themselves can be either copper or aluminum. The minimum cross-section depends on the material, connection method and design. When connecting with screw terminals, the minimum cross-section of copper wire is 1 mm², increasing to 2 mm² when switching to aluminum. Copper conductors can also be connected by soldering with a minimum cross-section of 0.5 mm² for a single-wire conductor and 0.35 mm² for a multi-wire conductor. The exact cross-sectional value is determined by calculating the consumer’s power at the project execution stage.

It is separately indicated that when installed in a channel, regardless of its design, it must be possible to replace the electrical wiring if such a need arises.

Inputting electricity into the house

It makes sense to deal with this issue even before the start of building a house: obtaining specifications for connecting to electrical networks is not a quick matter, no one will return the time spent going through the authorities, sometimes it is even better to hire a specially trained person for this.

For a house up to 150 sq.m. A single-phase connection up to 15 kW is sufficient.

Smak13FORUMHOUSE Member

Many people ask what is better to take, three phases or one? But this depends on the operating organization. The Allocation Act describes the type of input and the one-time allocated power. It can be 10 kW/220V (1ph) or 10 kW/380V (3ph). Common practice: if 10 kW and above - then 3 f., if 5 kW - 1 f.

Power engineers are engaged in conducting electricity to the ShchUP (electricity metering panel). The control panel is installed either directly on the facade of the house, then it’s up to the homeowner to take care of it. You can, having made a grounding loop, run a cable into the house in a grounded metal pipe, or, if the distance from the house to the nearest power line support is more than 25 meters, install an intermediate support and mount the control panel on it. Then the cable is led into the house through the air, or laid in the ground. To do this, use a special cable VBBShVng, or VVGng in double corrugation.

Do not run the cable below the foundation.

Some features

Returning to the first disadvantage of floor wiring, we emphasize that the specifics of installing electrical wiring of any type are clearly stated in the document PUE (“Electrical Installation Rules”). The main point is the availability of the entire system for inspection and repair work.

The points where wires connect/split must be free from mechanical tension from the material covering the floor. For this reason, various pipes made of corrugated, metal or polyethylene are used. The surface of this product takes the load of the coating. Remember that there must be enough free space inside for the wire to move.

One of the main elements of the electrical network in the house are distribution boxes. But placing them under the flooring is unrealistic, so the products are mounted in the wall. It is important to choose the correct height above the floor to avoid short circuits when the apartment is partially flooded and to prevent free access for children.

Since the corrugated pipe used for wiring must be smooth, in most cases it can be replaced with a regular polyethylene pipe with the appropriate diameter. However, the final decision is entirely up to you. Metal, corrugated and plastic products differ in technical characteristics and cost per linear meter.

On wooden floors, beams, trusses

For wood structures, wiring can be either open or hidden. Open wiring on the ceiling is performed using the same methods as on concrete structures. All installation products must be made of metal or non-flammable material.

Fastening wiring to the ceiling using insulators is used extremely rarely in modern construction, mainly to imitate an antique interior in an apartment. More often, wiring is installed in corrugated or metal hoses, which are mounted to the ceiling using clips. Often pipes are also used that are secured with clamps. The cables are pulled into pipes or sleeves fixed to the surface using steel wire.

Increasingly, plastic cable ducts are used for electrical wiring on wooden surfaces. This material does not support combustion, and the plastic is painted during production and imitates the texture of wood. Cable channels of a suitable cross-section are fixed to the ceiling surface using screws or self-tapping screws.

In places of bending, cable channels are cut at an angle. This is convenient to do using a carpenter's miter box. Special products for bending and branching are also produced. They significantly simplify the installation of electrical wiring on the ceiling. Next, the cables are placed inside and closed with snap-on covers.

When installing in plaster, cables must be secured along an asbestos strip or steel tape. Cable clamps or nail clips are used to secure cables.

It is strictly forbidden to secure the cable by nailing it between the conductors. If the wiring is installed in channels cut into the plaster, it is possible to attach the cables with a quick-drying mortar with the addition of alabaster.

When wiring under drywall, it is not necessary to cut channels, since the sheets are attached to a frame made of metal profiles. It is imperative, when laying behind suspended ceilings, to place the cables inside metal pipes, which make it possible to localize a wiring fire in the event of a short circuit. It is allowed to use steel water and gas pipes or copper.

The diameter of the pipes must ensure the installation of the required number of cables of the required size. Before use, pipes are inspected and crumpled ones are rejected. Next, they are cut into pieces of the required length and threads are cut into the ends of the steel pipes. It is imperative to remove nicks and burrs that can damage the cable insulation.

Pipe sections are connected to each other with angles or couplings. Copper pipes are bent using special pipe benders.

It should be noted that when installing any type of wiring in an apartment, it is necessary to provide for the possibility of replacing it due to physical wear and tear or an emergency. Properly performed electrical wiring installation work will ensure long-term and safe operation of the entire building or structure.

Is it possible to do the work yourself?

The option of arranging electrical wiring on the floor is not the simplest, but it is the most convenient for self-installation. You can do this kind of work with your own hands, but you don’t always use the method of laying it on the floor, since the wires are often pulled far from the panel.

In order to decide whether to use this method and how to implement it, it is necessary to consider each stage of the work in more detail.

Having determined the advantages for yourself, it is easy to make a choice in favor of the method.

Electrical on the ceiling or on the floor? — Archproject

When starting an apartment renovation, many people wonder how to lay electrical cables along the ceiling, floor or walls. In this article we will talk about the pros and cons of all options.

When wiring electrical lines to the ceiling in an apartment, there is essentially only one way - using suspended ceilings. At the same time, you get all the pros and cons of suspended ceilings. The main disadvantage is the reduction in ceiling height. The advantage of electricians under a suspended ceiling is the hypothetical opportunity to redo the electrical system with a relatively small investment (you only need to make grooves on the walls, replace the suspended ceiling and wallpaper on the walls).

Attention! If you are laying electrical wiring above a suspended ceiling, do not trust plastic “corrugated” holders; secure with additional wire or ties. Is it worth putting up with the reduced volume of the room every day for the sake of a hypothetical opportunity to make an additional outlet in ten years? It’s up to you to decide

But sometimes there are simply no other options, now you will understand why

Whether for the sake of the hypothetical opportunity to make an additional outlet in ten years, it’s worth putting up with the reduced volume of the room every day, it’s up to you to decide. But sometimes there are simply no other options, now you will understand why.

Electrician for floor

Electrical wiring on the floor means that the wires will be laid in the floor screed, in other words, the wires are first laid and then filled with cement. From our point of view, this is the best option, because... in this case, firstly, less wire is wasted, because the majority of consumers are located closer to the floor (sockets). Secondly, the height of the room does not decrease. Thirdly, you don’t have to use a fairly delicate stretch ceiling.

But sometimes, during renovations, the floors are not replaced or the screed is not poured, then the only options left are wiring on the ceiling or on the walls.

Electrical on walls

This is the worst option. If possible, you should try to refuse it. There are several reasons for this. Firstly, you will have to make a fairly large number of “grooves” (holes in the wall for laying cables). Secondly, after a while you will forget where the wires go, and there is a good chance that if you decide to hang a picture on the wall, you will damage the wire. Thirdly, it is better not to touch the load-bearing walls again.

General Tips

Do not make wire connections in a floor screed or above a suspended ceiling. All connections of electrical wires must be made in “junction” boxes, which must be located in the walls.
Take a photo, or better yet, make a plan of the wire routes and save these photos. It is possible that in 10 years they will help you avoid repairs.
Try to foresee all possible furniture placement options in advance and place sockets in these places. Remodeling is much more expensive than doing everything at once. In addition, the price of sockets will simply be lost against the general background of the repair.

The Archproekt company has been renovating apartments for many years. Call!

In what cases should you resort to installing electrical wiring in the floor?

Laying cables in the floor is not always the right solution. Sometimes it is worth resorting to the usual chiselling of walls, laying wiring and subsequent putty. But there are several options in which you should lean toward installing wires in the floor.

When installing completely new wiring in a room without repair. This situation awaits the owner who recently purchased a home. And most often, a complete lack of repair can only be observed in new buildings. And then laying the cable in the floor will be the ideal solution. There is no need to violate the integrity of the walls, and the work will take much less time than when installing hidden wiring.
When laying cables and wires in wooden houses, where the use of plastic cable ducts is not relevant. Then it is necessary to lay the cables in the floor, discreetly leading branches to sockets and switches. Distribution boxes are also installed in the floor.

How to make a diagram

Many homeowners, in order to create the correct project for the electrical supply of their home, engage specialists who know the requirements of the PUE by heart and, taking them into account, effortlessly place all these cables, wires, RCDs, sockets and overhead lights. The project drawn up by a specialist will be approved without unnecessary quibbles, and when the wiring is ready, the inspector will accept it the first time. But people who firmly know Ohm's law draw up electrical wiring diagrams independently and successfully.

Proper electrical wiring lasts about 20 years.

At the stage of drawing up an electrical wiring diagram in a private house, you need to choose whether the wiring will be laid in a closed or open way: in most cases, in stone houses they choose closed, in wooden houses - open.

AlexIvKUser FORUMHOUSE

I did it openly, because I do not accept idiocy in the form of chiseling and drilling logs for hidden wiring.

To lay power lines in a hidden way, they can use a corrugated sleeve made of non-flammable material (or maybe not, it depends on the material of the walls). To conduct an open power line, decorative twisted retro wiring is used, which is attached to insulators or less aesthetic cable channels.

A practicing electrician and FORUMHOUSE user with the nickname Kostya Ivanov tells how to create a wiring diagram. According to him, most people start by forming a diagram of the shield, but there is an easier way. You need to start by placing technical points on the house project, first - distribution panels. Different power supply schemes can be implemented, but it is better that there is more than one panel. This is always true in a country house.

Electrical installation64FORUMHOUSE user

They are building a two-story house, which will have a full basement, a garage and other outbuildings. It is more profitable to install separate panels on the second and ground floors, in the garage, etc. There are also cases when repairs are done gradually and the installation of the existing main panel will entail alterations.

Next, you should place socket points on the house plan for powerful loads (oven, living room air conditioner, etc.), loads with increased protection sensitivity (dishwasher, washing machine, outdoor sockets) and loads with uninterrupted operation (pumping station, heating boiler, signaling). Each of these devices must have an individual line from the panel, and each such line must have its own protection.

Ivanov KostyaForumHouse user

So in the panels we draw the first automatic machines and RCDs (residual current devices).

Then the house plan should be divided into zones and each designated with its own color, adhering to the following rules:

Each line should have no more than two residential premises: if the heating boiler suddenly fails, heaters will have to be installed in the rooms, and with this approach there will be two heaters per line.
Do not separate overhead lights from sockets. This will reduce the number of wires on the walls (and the risk of drilling into the wire). Each room will be completely turned off, but if the division of the house into zones is done correctly, then light will enter the emergency room through the door, and there will be working sockets nearby.

The next stage: “arrangement of furniture” in the plan and choosing a place for sockets. It is necessary to provide for everything: where the air conditioner will be, where the laptop is, the reading lamp by the chair, the table lamp on the bedside table, the wall lamps, the socket for the vacuum cleaner. After this, you need to arrange the furniture in a different order and add the number of sockets; a lot is not a little, but in the life of the owners of this house there will not be endless extension cords and hanging cords.

Sockets of the same color zone are brought together into a common line, which is pulled to the nearest panel: new machines and RCDs appear in the panels.

Now it’s the turn of the overhead light: you need to mark switches and lamps on the plan; for convenience, it is better to turn on some lamps through walk-through switches. It is also recommended to power street lamps at the exits to the house from walk-through switches to organize a rational and comfortable method of lighting: the owner left the house early in the morning, while it was still dark, locked the doors, then turned off the lights and went to work...

In the diagram, the overhead light is combined with sockets, and each color zone has its own lamp with its own switches. This way the plan is not overloaded with other lines leading to the shields. But if there is a need to separate the overhead light from the sockets, you need to make another scheme with a different color division of the building; combine different rooms into groups and extend new lines to the panels. New automatic devices and RCDs will appear in the panels.

Wiring without distribution boxes is the dream of any novice installer: to draw a separate line with an RCD from the switchboard to each outlet. But if there are many outlets in the room, you have to combine consumers into groups and run cables to the junction box. In the diagram you can see the place where they are mounted - where the vertical and horizontal lines intersect.

Many homeowners prefer to make boxes in the hallway; there is always less furniture there, and if the box has to be opened to run through the cable, it is morally easier to damage the wall decoration in the hallway than in the room. And you definitely don’t need to make boxes under the ceramic tiles.

The kitchen requires special attention when drawing up a diagram. From an ergonomic point of view, this is the most difficult area, in which sockets, boxes and lines are most dependent on the number of household appliances and furniture. The worst thing is that in most cases electricity is installed when it is unknown what kind of furniture will be there and what kind of equipment the housewife will need. There is a technique that experienced electricians often offer to customers:

place 3-4 lines (one for an electric stove or electric oven, two more for conventional kitchen appliances, one more for a dishwasher or washing machine) on the kitchen working wall, leave a supply of wires, roll them into a hoop, cover them with cardboard on top and preserve them them, begin plastering work.

And only then, having received a kitchen design with all the cabinets, table, space for the dishwasher and stove, draw sockets. To implement them, you will have to strip the walls: this method is more expensive on all sides, but the sockets will be located conveniently, and not above the gas stove or behind the built-in closet or other structures.

Light switches (if they are not built into the furniture) need to be prepared together with sockets, leaving tails to connect the lamps. If built-in, the lighting is connected to a double socket for the hood.

When working on the diagram, it is important not to forget utility rooms, attics and basements and take into account possible changes. Country life is designed in such a way that today in the garage there is only light and an outlet for a vacuum cleaner, but tomorrow it may have “a drilling or lathe, a welding station, an automatic gate, a mini-car wash... and for working outside it would be nice to place an outlet ( under an RCD) in the garage or on the garage...” Taking this into account, the garage should have not just a shield, but a large shield, with a reserve for 5-6 positions.

Another important recommendation from a professional:

first you need to install the water supply and heating, and then lay out the electrical part so that it doesn’t turn out that the boiler needs to be installed where the distribution box is already hanging.

Let's summarize: by drawing up such a diagram on the building design with all the partitions and doors, the homeowner will know the number of all lines, know what kind of protection they need, how and where the sockets will be located. And such a document will become an excellent basis for the estimate: it is easy to calculate how many sockets and switches need to be purchased, how many meters of wires will be required and what additional materials will be needed.

How to properly lay cables in the floor

You should remember the basic rule: when installing a cable in a concrete floor, ordinary corrugation is used, and when installing in a wooden floor, metal is used. Laying wiring without any protection is prohibited by all regulatory documents.

What you should know when starting to install electrical wiring on the floor:

All connections must be made only in junction boxes. The presence of twists in the floor, without additional protection, is unacceptable. Also, other types of connections cannot be left open: using sleeves or terminal blocks, bolted connections, etc.
It is very convenient to place the junction box on the floor surface. This allows you to quickly identify and eliminate the problem without compromising the integrity of the floor covering.
The corrugation should not be filled more than half with cable. This should be taken into account and a corrugation of the appropriate diameter should be selected. Only then, to replace the wire, can it be completely removed from the floor.
You should not install too long lines - 20 m is enough. If the use of longer conductors is required, then special transit boxes must be used.
There should not be more than two bends on one cable, the angles of which are 90 degrees or higher. This will have a detrimental effect on the further operation of the electrical network and, if necessary, the conductor will be impossible to get.
When laying a cable in a wooden floor, you should not attach it to the joists; in this case, special holes are made in them, through which the corrugation is then passed. The presence of such holes will not affect the stability of the floor covering in any way. For additional safety, all wooden floor elements must be treated with a special composition that prevents combustion.
When starting to pour a concrete floor, you must remember that the thickness of the cement screed above the wiring should be approximately 30 cm. For better stability (but not for electrical safety purposes), reinforced mesh is also placed in the screed.
The corrugation with conductors should not intersect; all cables should run parallel to each other. When crossing them, it will be necessary to raise the floor level, which implies additional consumption of building material.

Most importantly, consider this level 0

Whatever you do, always ask the performers for a diagram! And talk about this not after the work is done, when no one remembers anything (they will draw at random in order to at least give something away), and those who remember have already been replaced, but before the start of work. Payment only after transfer of the scheme. Print out a dozen floor plans for an electrician so that he can mark on it with a pen what goes where, and then redraw it completely, at least let it be that way. It should be completely drawn; there is no need to accept scribbled, dusty, crumpled pieces of paper for another electrician to understand later. It is important to identify all cables, both electrical and low current, with cable markings and the location of all elements.

Example. You don’t want to implement any automation now, but install twisted pair cables along all power cables to make it happen. Five years later, you decide to install something like a Smart Home and call different integrators. What's the first thing they ask? Cable diagram, of course. But there is no diagram. Someone at this stage will immediately refuse, since he will already begin to understand how the end will end, but someone needs money more, he will offer to check all the cables and draw this very diagram, only for quite a significant amount of money.

A Smart House is a Smart House, and the electrical work must be done correctly. With all the necessary elements, a normal panel and installation diagram.

I can complete an electrical supply project with any elements of modern electrical and Smart Home systems. Read more about project options and costs here.

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Places where it is beneficial to use the method

Electrical wiring on the floor is convenient in houses that have not yet undergone any renovation. Such buildings include newly erected new buildings, where, as a rule, only pre-finishing has been done. You will not have to violate the integrity of the walls; the cable can be laid in a place convenient for you in the floor, and the necessary wiring can be made from it to switches and sockets.

Installation under the floor will also be a profitable solution for a wooden house. In this case, wiring disadvantages associated with difficult access will disappear. For a wooden house, this solution is quite relevant, since running cable ducts along the walls will significantly affect the interior of the rooms, and retro-style wiring will cost much more than modern wiring.

By placing the cable under the floor, you will not only hide all the wires and make the wiring convenient, but if necessary, you can easily pull it out from under the boards and make repairs.

Distinctive features of modern electrical wiring

Modern household technologies made a significant breakthrough at the end of the 20th century. In addition to televisions, homes now have computers, security and video surveillance systems, powerful household appliances, and wireless communications. In this regard, wiring electrical cables has become much more complicated, although the principles of the device have not changed.

Difficulties begin from the very first stage - design. In order to correctly draw up a wiring diagram in an apartment, you need to know in advance the approximate power of household electrical appliances and their locations. At the same time, you need to think about the lighting system in all rooms.

If you do not take into account the laying of a computer cable and the installation of a router for your home network, you will end up with wires hanging on the wall or stretched along the floor. At best, they can be hidden in a plinth or sewn into a box

In addition to a large number of new devices, one more difference has appeared: along with the power network, there is always a low-current system, which traditionally includes telephone and television wires, as well as computer, security, acoustic equipment and an intercom.

These two systems (power and low-current) cannot be separated, since all devices are powered from 220 V power sources.

Wiring diagram of a low-current system in an apartment. Includes three networks: computer, telephone and television. Each network has its own types of cable and equipment

The number of devices and cables used simultaneously has changed. If previously it was enough to install one chandelier in the hall, now many people use a lighting system that includes, in addition to the chandelier, spotlights and lighting.

In addition to the increase in the number of equipment, it is necessary to add an increase in power - for this reason, the old cables are no longer suitable, and the size of the electrical distribution board has increased noticeably.

Advantages of corrugation

The corrugation, which is used when installing in a screed, must be rigid or heavy, as it is also called.
It has almost the same appearance as a light PVC corrugated tube. However, the price for these products differs several times! As an alternative, many use orange or black HDPE corrugation. Three types of corrugated tubes and their characteristics PVC, HDPE, PP:

PVCHPNDPP

However, do not forget that corrugated HDPE is flammable! Although the majority here are reassured by the moment of its installation on a concrete slab, and even a screed poured on top.

When using cheap PVC, during work, you will step on it more than once and push it with your own weight. At the same time, do not forget about careless handling of the stepladder and falling of heavy objects. All this can easily damage the cable insulation.

Anyone who dares to lay a cable in a screed without protection, that is, without corrugation, may face serious problems in the future. Unfortunately, the screed sometimes cracks, and along with them the wire will break.

By the way, regarding the myths about the replacement of wiring laid in corrugation, you can read in detail in the article “Installing cables in corrugation - errors and misconceptions.”

The only full-fledged replacement option can only be when laying a wide plastic cable channel or pipes into the wall.

This is often done on the wall where the TV will be hung. And then, in this case, completely different cables are used.

When installing on the floor, it is advisable to place the entire cable at a distance from the edge of the wall (approximately 30cm). There is no need to make connections close to it.

When installing baseboards, bar counters or other furniture, the cable can easily be pierced and damaged.

As for junction boxes, the best option would be to install all connections in the socket boxes. That is, where switches and sockets are installed, recessed socket boxes are used and all switching is performed inside them. If you need to audit contacts or reconnect something, there will be no problems with this.

The mechanism of the switch or socket itself is removed, the wires are pulled out from there and all the work is carried out. Then everything is put together in reverse order.

In this case, you do not need to dismantle and then re-stretch the suspended ceiling, as is the case with wiring along the top.

Difficulty 3 - Adding simple automation

But here there is already room for imagination in the realization of various wishes. What can be done, in order of difficulty:

Function to turn off lights and/or sockets with one button. To leave the house and immediately turn off all the lights and sockets. We have separate batteries for the refrigerator and low current, so they will not turn off. How to turn it off is up to you. You can have a card switch, like in hotels, you can make a hidden button, you can have a code keyboard or a contactless key reader. You can use a fingerprint. Or you could put a big red button on the shield. Read Turning off the lights with one button, Turning off the sockets with one button.
Walk-through lighting groups through simple automation. For example, impulse relays or programmable relays. An excellent option is programmable relays ARIES PR or any others, they cost very little and are easy to program. You can connect motion sensors to the relays, light sensors in the corridor or on the stairs (in a private house) and configure the cunning switching on of the light at different brightnesses at different times of the day according to the motion sensor. Or just convenient control of light from different places, without bothering with pass-through and cross switches. And most of all, I recommend using Wirenboard relay modules and dimmers; they can be used to implement light control of any complexity, very flexible and convenient. It is not even necessary to understand module programming; it may not be needed.
Programmable relay for controlling bathroom hoods and ventilation. By turning on the lights, by timers. Read Control of hoods via a programmable relay. Or also via Wirenboard relay modules.

Similarly, through programmable relays, you can control street lighting, create a presence simulation mode and other things. It is enough to try to program the Aries PR relay according to the instructions once to understand how easy it is to create different scenarios on it. There are many analogues, for example, Siemens Logo or X-Logic, EKF.

Safe installation

Before installing the cable, make sure it is intact. Special distribution boxes are used for each individual section. Avoid any twists that reduce the reliability of the system as a whole. The boxes described above are placed on the walls at a safe height to prevent moisture from entering during flooding or interference from children. In some cases, the selected height may be minimal.

The installation box can be installed directly in the floor. In this case, it should be protected by a durable removable lid that can be easily removed so that, if necessary, the master can access the contents. Don’t forget about the possibility of creating a floor wiring diagram, which will make it easier to find the right node or wire in the future.

Junction box in the floor

Another important condition for increasing the safety level of electrical wiring is the correct filling of the corrugation. Do not try to cram a lot of wires inside such a tube. It is advisable to leave about 60% of the total tube space empty. The maximum length of one line (from the distribution panel to the socket or switch) should not exceed 20 m. When placing at right angles, make sure that there are no more than two cables. However, the recommendation is similar for situations with sharper angles. Try to avoid any sharp bends.

In wooden houses, placing wires along joists is unacceptable. Installation is carried out using pre-drilled technical holes. When using wooden parts, they must be treated with a high-quality composition that prevents combustion. Avoid branching the route directly from the panel, this will significantly complicate repair work if the electrical wiring is damaged.

Laying wires in the technological holes of the log.

Difficulty level 2 - For advanced

Remember about non-switchable devices. If there is an accident somewhere that triggers an RCD or an automatic circuit breaker, then what should remain working? The most obvious answer is a refrigerator. It is also possible, if there is one, an alarm system and video surveillance. Wi-Fi router, since remote access to video surveillance and some devices depends on it. We install separate protection on them with an automatic or automatic + RCD powered from the input (after the voltage relay). If there is a good short circuit, it is possible that the input circuit breaker will also go out, but there is no way to insure against this. The likelihood that such a short circuit will occur when you are not at home is not so great; you just need to plug something seriously faulty into the outlet.
Make more power supply groups. Sockets in each room have a separate cable. Kitchen - usually at least 5 cables: countertop sockets, hob, dishwasher + chopper (filter) + microwave, oven. Sometimes countertop outlets are split into two or even three separate groups. The more groups, the fewer cable connections, fewer devices are turned off in the event of an accident, less cable heating, and it is easier to localize the problem. But there are also more costs for cables and installation.
We add voltage and power indication to the panel. VAR-M02 or a similar device shows the voltage of each phase and current consumption, as well as the number of power outages. Helps control consumption and phase balance.

Installation of wire in a screed

Well, at the last stage, let's look at the installation itself. It is not so complicated and can be done with your own hands, but we should pay attention to some nuances.

We make walls for embedded boxes

First of all, we are building walls to install embedded parts for sockets, switches and wiring to them. After all, these devices cannot be placed close to the floor. In this case, the groove should be of such a depth that the wire fits in the corrugation, and then the putty layer should be at least 1 cm.

Pulling wires in a corrugated

The next step is to lay the corrugation. It is better to lay the corrugation with the wires already stretched, although this can be done later. When laying corrugations, we try to eliminate their intersection and get rid of sharp corners. This will make it easier for you to change the wire if necessary.

We try to avoid intersection of corrugated hoses

After this, we connect all electrical points. It is mandatory to check their functionality with voltage applied. Ideally, even turn on all electrical points for a day, and then see if we have heating anywhere.

We fix the corrugation to the floor

If we used plastic corrugation, then we fix it to the floor. This is necessary in case it starts to float while pouring the screed. This practically does not happen with metal corrugation, but it is better to secure it in the same way as in the video.
Well, at the very last stage we directly fill the floor. In this case, it is better to remove the voltage from all wires in this room. The screed must provide at least a 3 cm layer above the corrugation. The functionality of the network should be checked only after the concrete has completely dried, which is 15–30 days.

Checking the thermostat before installation

In order to be sure that the thermostat is working properly, before installing and connecting a heated floor to it, you need to check the thermostat. A separate article on the website “How to repair a thermostat for heated floors” is devoted to the repair of thermostats for heated floors.

The photo shows the simplest thermostat with a temperature sensor, which only allows you to set the heating temperature without the ability to change it during the day.

On the back of any thermostat there is a screw terminal block for connecting wires and markings for their connection. A temperature sensor is connected to contacts 1 and 2.

Contacts 3 and 8 are supplied with the supply voltage of household electrical wiring. Wires coming from the heated floor are connected to 4 and 5. Pins 6 and 7 of the terminal are grounding. yellow-green PE grounding wire is connected to one of them.

the color of the electrical wiring, and to the second the wire coming from the heat-reflecting aluminum substrate, which spreads under the heated floor film. When checking the thermostat, contacts 6 and 7 are left free.

To check, instead of heating elements of a heated floor, you need to connect an incandescent lamp of any power with a voltage of 220 V to contacts 4 and 5. Place the temperature sensor on top of the light bulb. Use the thermostat knob to set the temperature a little higher than the air temperature, connect the thermostat to the power supply and turn it on.

On the thermostat panel, the voltage supply indicator to the heating element should immediately light up and the connected light bulb should light up.

After a few minutes, when the light bulb heats the temperature sensor to the set temperature, the thermostat will stop supplying the supply voltage and the light bulb should go out. After cooling, turn on again and this should be repeated if the thermostat is working properly ad infinitum.

Combined electrical option

However, there is no need to take all of the above as an axiom and install electrics in your apartment only on the ceiling, or only on the floor.

A very common option is a combined solution to this issue. Some of the wires run on top, and some on the bottom.

Sometimes equally, sometimes not. The reason for this may be the very large volume and ramification of the entire wiring architecture.

If you have at least two or three dozen modular protection devices in your electrical panel, and at the same time you also have a low-current panel, then when installing all this equipment on the floor, you would get a huge trail of wires.

The wider it is, the higher the likelihood of overlaps and intersections of corrugations with each other. Such intersections are not good. And in some cases they can even lead to an increase in the thickness of the screed.

Therefore, the ideal solution here would be a combined option. A small amount of corrugations (primarily low-current) can be run along the ceiling.

And lay the power wires in a screed.

Also, in the future, it will be possible to run additional lines along the ceiling that you did not initially plan, for example, for the air conditioning system.

You can't do without grounding

When assembling an apartment switchboard, a TN-CS grounding circuit is used instead of the outdated two-wire one. In the new system, an additional PE conductor appears - grounding; now three conductors should come to the consumer: L phase, N zero, PE grounding. Each electrical appliance that has a special PE contact must be grounded. If your house or apartment does not have grounding, then this circuit is not difficult to make with your own hands. In a series of articles on the site, the design of a ground loop for self-installation was discussed in detail. All you need to do is study the section: .

What else is important to know is that it is prohibited to carry out zeroing in apartments of old housing stock. Those. use additionally zero N (without upgrading all common house wiring) as a PE grounding wire. The reason for this is that in the event of an accident (break of the neutral wire on the floor below), the wire acquires a dangerous potential and objects connected to such a conductor may receive an electric shock. In such cases, it is better not to connect the PE conductor anywhere until better times, until the home network is modernized.

Laying cables in a concrete floor: installation rules and features

Laying wiring on a concrete floor has its pros and cons, but today it is the most relevant.

The advantages of such installation include a high level of electrical safety - even in the event of a breakdown, the dangerous potential will not reach the resident, even those located near the breakdown site. A layer of concrete will hide the entire electrical network, and a reinforced belt will give the structure additional strength. With proper installation and subsequent operation, wires in concrete will function properly for several decades.

Now we should move on to the disadvantages. The main disadvantage of installing cables in the floor is the impossibility of creating connection points. After all, if a twist or terminal block burns out in concrete, then it is almost impossible to find the location of the damage. Therefore, it is necessary to lay solid lines directly from the panel or connection points located above the floor level.

According to technical standards, the concrete layer above the electrical wiring must be at least 30 cm. If the room is large, creating such a screed will require a large amount of building material, which leads to additional costs.

To replace the electrical wiring located in the floor screed, as well as when troubleshooting or laying a new line, it is necessary to dismantle the concrete surface. And after all the work, re-fill the floor. In order for concrete to gain the required hardness, a certain time must pass, so eliminating errors in cable laying in a concrete floor may take more than one day.

To cut concrete pavement, diamond blades are used, the cost of which is now quite high. You may also need a hammer drill, the use of which will lead to a large amount of construction waste.

Pros and cons of this installation

You should not lay a cable in the floor without knowing all the intricacies of this process. And you should start with the advantages of hidden electrical wiring:

High degree of electrical safety. The floor covering (floorboard, laminate, linoleum) will become the dielectric that will prevent the spread of potential in the event of a cable breakdown. This means that a person will not be shocked by electric current even if he stands in the place under which the cable passes.
Less spending. High-quality wiring will require less cable, which will provide significant savings.
Ease of operation. The most difficult stage will be pouring the concrete floor. When installing electrical wiring, you need to insert the cable into the corrugation and simply lay it on the floor. Many electricians do not even attach the corrugation to the concrete base.

But in addition to its advantages, any work also has its disadvantages. The disadvantages of installing cable wiring under the floor include:

The complexity of identifying and eliminating the malfunction. If the cable breaks down, you will have to lay a new line or dismantle the floor surface.
Additional expenses for pouring a new floor if dismantling is required. Also included in the category of additional investments is the consumption of corrugation, without which the cable cannot be laid in the floor.

On a wooden floor

Laying in the structure of wooden floors is complicated by the fact that it is carried out in a fire hazardous environment. Taking into account this feature, cable products whose shells do not propagate fire should be used for installation. The best according to this criterion are cables whose letter part of the brand is supplemented with the symbols “ng” - non-flammable.

The best results are obtained by using metal pipes, which also protect against mechanical damage. A blind metal tray is also acceptable.

The formation of a cable channel system is performed in the following sequence:

First, pipe laying routes are formed. To pass through the logs, technological holes are made in them, which can be replaced with cuts
Metal pipes of individual channels are installed according to the design, followed by fastening to the transverse beams. The main means of fastening pipes is perforated tape; self-tapping screws are used for fixation.
If there is a large gap in the places where the beams pass through, it is sealed with polyurethane foam.
Individual sections of pipes are connected to each other through junction boxes. An example of such a connection is shown in Figure 8.
Regardless of the type of metal pipe, they must be grounded to form channels.
Power cables are pulled into the formed tubular channels.

When cable ducts pass through wooden structures, the use of protective sleeves and short sections of pipes is not mandatory.

When using a system for underground laying of electrical cables, taking into account the high fire hazard of wooden structures, it is necessary to additionally treat them with fire retardant compounds.

An example of installing a junction box with grounding of pipes and foaming of mounting cuts in joists.

Laying cables in the floor has a number of advantages, but due to certain technological difficulties in implementation, it is advisable to use it in the process of new construction of city apartments. For wooden houses, this limitation shifts to the level of major repairs.

In the process of forming the wiring, it is advisable to provide a system of mounting boxes, and the pipes between the individual boxes should have a minimum number of turns. The process of forming electrical wiring using a gasket in the floor is not highly technologically complex; with the use of modern building materials, it can be performed without outside help with initial qualifications and without the use of special tools.

Installation of cable electric heated floors

First step. We install the thermostat in a pre-prepared installation box. We connect the power and grounding cables to the box. Down from the box we make a recess in the wall to connect to the heating wire.

Second step. We are preparing a diagram for laying cable heated floors. You can take this step first as you wish. On paper, mark the space for laying the heating cable. We do not lay cables in places where heavy furniture and equipment will be installed.

Prices for heating cable and components

Heating cable and accessories

Calculators for calculating the length of the heating cable and its laying pitch

To correctly draw up a diagram, you need to know two quantities - the total length of the cable and its laying pitch (the distance between adjacent wires in a loop). There are special formulas, but we suggest using the built-in calculator. Enter the values and get the result!

Initial data:

- the total area of the premises where the cable will be laid;

— features of the room — select an option from the proposed list;

— specific power of the cable — it is indicated in the product passport, W per linear meter.

Go to calculations

The found value will help you decide on the choice of a heated floor kit with a cable, the length of which most closely matches the calculated parameter.

Now, knowing the length, it is easy to calculate the laying step:

Go to calculations

Third step. We transfer the diagram from the paper to the base. It is convenient to use bright tape for marking. If you wish, you can familiarize yourself with ready-made diagrams presented in open sources and focus on them during the work process.

Fourth step. We lay the underfloor heating cable along the marking lines.

Important: the cable must not be bent.

To attach the cable to the reinforcing mesh laid on top of the heat-insulating layer, we use clips or a special tape.

Connect the heating cable to the power wire and temperature sensor on a flat surface. Be sure to cover the joints with corrugated pipe.

Check cable resistance. Acceptable values are indicated in the instructions for the system; please check this point separately.

Finally, all that remains is to connect the power cable to the temperature controller. First turn off the electricity supply. After connecting the system to the thermostat, we test it in several modes. If everything is fine, we proceed to further activities.

Subtleties of laying cables in a floor screed

Let's consider certain nuances associated with laying an electrical cable under a concrete screed.

Marking and diagram

Before starting work, you should make a marking to indicate where under the floor the corrugation with the electrical cable will be located. Consider those elements that will be placed on the wall or floor; they also need to be noted.

For convenience, create a diagram on paper where the location of the wires will be marked. This will come in handy if you need to drill into the floor: you can avoid getting caught in a wire.

The diagram should show the dimensions of the wires, as well as the distance at which they are removed from the walls. If possible, mark the depth of the wiring under the floor.

It is much more convenient to groove walls or install socket boxes using markings. You will be able to carry out the work more accurately, check how evenly all the structural elements will be located without starting work, and evaluate whether their location is convenient.

Laying electrical wiring in the floor

When installing the electrical cable, you should pay attention to its fixation. Fastening is carried out using plastic clamps, which avoids any shifts during installation of the screed. If you ignore this point, it is more likely that the wiring will simply move out of place, making the previously created diagram irrelevant. You may not even know about it, and in the worst case, you will realize it when you accidentally drill into the cable. To increase the strength of the screed and protect the corrugated pipe, experts recommend using reinforcement or mesh made of polymers.

You should not save money and purchase low-quality cable channels. Make sure to choose durable products that will improve the reliability of your home's electrical wiring. Electrical installation components must be routed from the distribution panel. Ideally, each wire should have a separate channel, since a large number of branches will complicate the potential replacement of the damaged section. This may lead to the need to open up the floor.

When you pass the cable through the channels, the created passages should be covered with plaster. It can be replaced with cement mixture or plaster. Next, a floor screed with a thickness of at least 30 mm is performed. The load on the box should be minimal to avoid deformation and destruction of the surface with subsequent damage to the wiring.

In addition to saving on materials, electrical wiring in the floor provides freedom when arranging furniture in the room. Think in advance about the location of sockets depending on where the household appliances will be located. Try to create the required number of plugs to eliminate the need for tees and extensions. It is always better to connect each device to a separate point.

Floor socket device

As you can see, installing electrical wiring in the floor is much simpler than installing wires in the walls. However, there are some nuances and the need for impeccable implementation of the rules and recommendations prescribed in the PUE. If you doubt the quality of the work performed, contact professional specialists. A qualified electrician will install reliable wiring, drawing up its diagram in advance and calculating the amount of materials and equipment (making an estimate).

Lighting system

Installation of lighting fixtures is the stage that completes the electrical installation.

The lighting system is an important part of electrical installation.

The lamps will be equipped with sockets and conductors, their number and cross-section will be determined by the power of the bulbs and the type of light circuit.

The conductors of the lamp are connected to the terminals of the socket, the one into which the light bulbs are screwed.

Connecting wires to socket terminals requires a lot of attention to ensure that the wire is correctly connected to the phase and that all elements are insulated.

For commissioning, we will connect the lighting devices to the light circuit.

This operation is performed by joining or twisting if the installation is based on copper, or using special clamps if it is made of aluminum.

Finally, the light bulbs are installed by screwing them correctly into the socket, having first checked their filament.

What to do if it floods

The most common question that arises for any apartment owner who has agreed to install wires on the floor: “What will happen to the electrics if you are flooded for some reason?”

Nothing catastrophic. All wiring is carried out not only in a corrugated cable, but also with a cable having several layers of insulation.

The most important thing is to check during the pouring of the screed that there are no joints or insulation burrs underneath it. The cable must only be solid. Then you won’t have any problems with the wiring, even if it’s ankle-deep in flooding.

Maintenance of electrical components

Electrical components play an important role in any electrical installation. These spaces are where electrical circuits have branching points. They will allow us to intervene later if we have problems with the work.

Access points are other visible elements with which we can turn off the electricity. Here you can understand and see the overall picture of the electrical installation.

To make installation intervention safer, we will not place electrical cables in the same place as sanitary or heating installations.

Cable without corrugation. Why not and when is possible.

As they say, the rules of the PUE, clause 7.1.37, embedding a bare cable in a groove is allowed. But in the same rules there is an explanation of what the word allowed means:

It turns out that theoretically you can use the cable in walls without protection, and the rules leave you a loophole for this. The main thing is to legally justify why you did it this way and not otherwise.

Moreover, in the updated set of rules SP 256.1325800.2016 “Electrical installations of residential and public buildings. Design and Installation Rules” plainly states:

That is, it is possible to plaster not only the cable, but also separately the wires in the protective sheath.

What about laying on the ceiling, without plaster? Here we look at paragraph 15.15 from the same code:

And here, too, it is clearly stated that it is allowed to lay individual cables along the ceiling on brackets, i.e. without any corrugation.

At the same time, there are several practical considerations that clearly show that laying a cable without corrugation cannot be considered a durable installation.

If you have seen walls cleared of wallpaper, be it a panel house or a brick one, then you have probably noticed various kinds of cracks. They may be no thicker than a hair, or vice versa, a thumb can easily fit there.

In addition, cracks are also found in new buildings, even in those that have not yet been occupied by residents. Now think about what happens to the cable tightly sealed in the wall when it moves apart.

Most likely, nothing good. Will you be able and will you want, 15-20 years after such cracks appear, to tear off the wallpaper and change all the supply wiring?

Imagine that you needed to hang one or more paintings on the wall a few years after the renovation.

You take a hammer drill, mark the fastening points, start drilling and hear a characteristic pop with the release of a large number of sparks.

And only then do you remember about the cable going to the socket hidden behind the bedside table. It is useless to turn on the machine; there will be a stable short circuit on the line. And all the other sockets in the room can hang on this group.

If you have suspended ceilings installed, then in principle there is no question of replacing the damaged area, but under one condition - if the cable is laid in a corrugated area.

You can easily replace this piece by simply unfastening part of the ceiling, running a new cable and zipping it back up. At the same time, there is no chiselling or breaking into walls.

On the ceiling itself, when turning at 90 degrees, this trick is unlikely to succeed.

Imagine that with all of the above, the cable is embedded in the plaster? You can, of course, not open the walls, but simply abandon this outlet (by biting off the connection to it under the ceiling).

But then get your longest carriers and extensions ready for unsheathing.

Very often in old houses you can find dirty cable marks on the walls. These are dark rusty stripes along which the wiring routes can be easily traced.

These stripes can be so visible that they sometimes even show through several layers of wallpaper.

Of course, the Gost cable VVGnG-Ls does not necessarily have to give such an effect, but you will not get a definite answer until you are convinced of the quality of this or that product from personal experience.

Moreover, the effect may not appear immediately, but after 10-15 years. In addition, don't forget:

Laying cables in the floor: features of the work, main advantages and disadvantages