How to install a PVC corner on a bathtub. Photo instructions

There is always a characteristic gap along the interface between the side of the bathtub and the wall. Its size depends on the quality of installation of the container, the evenness of the walls, and the characteristics of the sanitary bowl. Regardless of whether this gap reaches a whole centimeter or is a tenth of a millimeter, it freely allows water to pass through.

Agree, it is not very pleasant to periodically or constantly conflict with neighbors from the apartment located below regarding constantly flooded ceilings. But to avoid negative situations, it is enough to close the gap with a flexible or rigid border. It will hermetically seal the joint and effectively design the perimeter of the bowl.

We will tell you in great detail how to glue a border to a bathtub. All options for sealing and decorating the gap between the bowl and the wall are collected and systematized for you. In addition to valuable recommendations, visual photo guides and video instructions are included.

Strip plinth and its installation

There are several options for gluing a strip corner to a bathroom.
Often this product already has a layer of a special fixing substance. However, if the owners are interested in the question of how to properly glue the baseboard to the bathtub, they should still choose a different sealant. If desired, the factory glue can be carefully removed from the polyethylene product. This is done using a knife. The main thing is to perform all actions carefully.

Sometimes such a fixing layer is left, but silicone sealant is additionally used.

The different widths of the tape will also help you choose the desired border. It is even easier to install than a hard corner. However, it is used in case of rigid fixation of the bathtub.

Plastic borders

This is the most common and economical option.
Every hardware store offers a large selection of different plastic borders. Such parts can be attached both under the tile and on top of it. Having chosen a similar option, you need to think about how to stick the plastic corner in the bathtub. It is much better to use “liquid nails”. Specialized silicone glue is also great. To install plastic curbs, you do not need to have any specialized skills in construction. In addition, they are inexpensive, and there are quite a few different colors and sizes available. All this makes plastic corners a very popular material for sealing cracks in bathrooms. When purchasing this border, you first need to think about how to stick the corner onto the bathtub, and more specifically to the wall: under the tile or on top of the tile.

Let's look at what types of plastic borders there are.

They are produced in the form of corners and baseboards. Two options are great for concealing the connection between the wall and the plumbing. Borders in the form of an angular profile can be installed both on top of the tiles and under them. If, for example, you choose a plastic plinth, then it is placed only on top of the cladding material. Now manufacturers have begun to produce curbs with rubberized edges. This makes it possible to perform a more reliable seal. Along with the profiles themselves, you must purchase all the necessary components (plugs, corner components)

Features of installation work

If the walls in the plumbing unit are tiled, then there are two options for fastening the curb:

• Under tiles
• On top of the tiles.

Which option to choose and how to stick a plastic corner on a bathtub?

Of course, the first option must be used if, along with the installation of plumbing fixtures and curbs, wall tiling is also planned. The tile will lie on top of the half of the corner that is attached to the wall. This is quite a job that requires a lot of work and requires great abilities. And therefore, if you have chosen this option, it is better to ask professionals. The priority of such fasteners is considered to be sufficiently large water protection: water in this option will definitely not leak. But if you have to change the curb after a couple of years, this can only be done by dismantling the tiles above the bathroom.

The second option is much easier. If the walls are already covered with ceramic tiles, then everyone can handle the task of how to stick a border on a bathtub. In this option, you need to start working by cutting a plastic corner or baseboard into pieces along the length of the bathtub.

It is best to first “measure” these pieces to the opening and outline them with chalk or a pencil. Then apply tape to those parts of the wall and bathtub where you don't want the glue to get.

This will greatly simplify your further work. Of course, the surface must be prepared in advance (as in the option with a border strip). How to glue the plastic corner in the bathtub and wall?

“Liquid nails” are much better: this is one of the most reliable options. If the gap is large enough, seal it in advance with caulk or foam for installation.

When it is dry, apply glue to the back surface of the corner and press it against the wall and edge of the bathtub for 20-30 seconds. When the part is glued, you will need to install the components and remove the repair tape.

In apartments of our time, PVC panels are often used instead of tiles as finishing materials. Let's look at how to stick a plastic border onto a bathtub, if this is your case. In this option, it is better to choose rubberized curbs.

Panels are also usually placed both on top of the corner and under it. If the distance is large, then you can “bring it closer” to the wall using a repair profile, on which the panels will be installed.

And then the corner can be placed on top of the panels. Here, instead of a corner, you can use a plastic plinth, just do not forget to secure the seal with a specialized sealant. After all the work is completed, you need to leave your bathroom for the day. Only then can you safely use it for its intended purpose.

Now the question of how to stick a corner on a bathtub will not cause you any difficulties.

How and with what to glue a plastic corner in the bathroom

What to use to glue the corner in the bathroom? There are special types of glue designed for this type of work. In particular, the glue must be transparent, so that even if it protrudes beyond the edge of the corner, no traces remain.

The plastic corner on the bathtub will be glued correctly if:

• Choose the right glue;
• Do not violate the installation technology;
• The product will be of high quality.

When choosing a material on which to glue an acrylic or clinker border, you should also take into account what the bathroom itself is made of. Namely, compositions made on the basis of acrylic can glue plastic, but if the plumbing equipment is made of metal, then you can use the most ordinary liquid nails.

Plastic corner in the bathroom can be glued

To do this, you can use a sponge and a mild solvent. If the bathtub is made of a material for which the use of solvent is strictly prohibited, then the remaining adhesive is removed immediately after applying the corner, until the composition hardens.

If the corners need to be installed after the bathtub has been purchased, then the tile covering must be washed to remove dirt and dust. This can be done with a hard sponge and soapy water.

After this, the surface of both the bathtub and the tiles must be dried, since the glue will not adhere to a wet coating, and repeated installation work will have to be carried out. To degrease the tile surface, alcohol or white spirit is suitable. Too aggressive compounds cannot be used, as they can corrode the plastic corner. The glue is applied around the perimeter of the back side of the corner, but the line should be as thin as possible. To seal the seams between the bathtub and the wall, you can use silicone sealant or putty that is resistant to water and high humidity.

Plastic

Features of the technology

Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) curbing allows large gaps, but is sensitive to panel unevenness. Differences between tiles of more than 1 mm per 50 cm cannot be compensated by the flexibility of the plank; the resulting tension will cause tearing. A rigid profile should be used, and the gap should be filled with an adhesive.

The technical process is determined by the adopted approach, the type of edge, and the features of design solutions. There are two fundamental disagreements:

• The need to seal the gap between the side and the panel.
• What surfaces to mount on?

Proponents of sealing the gap argue that water is likely to seep under the plastic, especially as it ages and becomes damaged. However, significant volumes of liquid can get into the gap only with deliberate watering and the edging coming off.

Opponents of sealing claim: accidental moisture under the baseboard quickly dries out if the gap is open and there is sufficient ventilation. Closing the gap impedes air flow, water stagnates, blooms, an unpleasant odor and mold appear.

The principle of ventilation of the space under the bathroom.

If there is a solid lining of the bathtub at the front, which interferes with ventilation, the first option is acceptable. Such finishing is undesirable for reasons of hygiene and maintenance.

Adherents of complete insulation attach the curb to the side and the wall at the same time. This solution gives satisfactory results with a hard cast iron bath. Steel, and even more so acrylic samples are deformed, the rim begins to come off. It is preferable to attach it only to the wall; the flexible border will not allow water to pass through and compensates for movement.

Mounting options.

A number of external skirting boards have one plane suitable for fastening, which confirms the correct fixation to the wall. Prefabricated varieties snap onto a strip attached to the partition. Internal modifications are installed by inserting a shelf under the tile or into a gap; the latter is not feasible if the gap is filled.

Fixation on flange. Composite version for outdoor installation.

Internal variety.

Installation under ceramics.

Preparation

Check out the indicative list of what you need:

• Liquid cleaning degreaser, inert to parts. Acrylic is wiped with alcohol and white spirit.
• Cotton rags, sponge.
• Masking tape.
• Glue: universal MS-polymer, aquarium sealants are effective; neoprene “liquid nails”. Silicone without additives turns yellow and is affected by fungus!
• Grout for seams.
• Marking supplies: tape measure, pencil.
• A ruler or level at least 50 cm long.
• Knife with replaceable blades.
• Miter box when there are no ready-made connectors.
• Hacksaw for metal.
• File, sandpaper.

"Silicon Problems"
Follow standard procedures:

• Clean, wash, degrease, dry the panels and side.
• Apply masking tape around the perimeter, above and below the profile being installed, spacing 2 mm. We apply masking tape.
• Level the tile facing by covering the seams with grout or sealant. Check the fit for clearance using a level or the edge of a ruler. Deviations from flatness and straightness are allowed no more than 2 mm per 1 m (1 mm / 50 cm).

  
  Checking the fit.

General rules: hard plinth is chosen for a wide gap, smooth wall; PVC structures with rubber edges are functional on embossed tiles.

Sealing the gap

The controversial statement says: installing a baseboard on a bathtub requires sealing the gap, therefore:

• The narrow gap is filled with sanitary sealant; acrylic compositions adhere well to acrylic plumbing fixtures. Sealant
• A gap of 5 to 10 mm is insulated with a moisture-resistant tile mixture containing polymer additives.
• Waterproof polyurethane foam solves the problem with a “size” of up to 50 mm, reliably adheres to metal, wood, ceramic tiles, there is no adhesion to silicone. Consider a threefold increase in volume after polymerization.

  
  Polyurethane foam.

The natural desire to immediately glue a plastic plinth onto the foam is a mistake: polyurethane, expanding, can press out the profile, and it will not be possible to fix it tightly. In all cases, stop work until the filler has completely hardened. After 24 hours, cut off any foam that appears.

The above applies to the “swallow” profile. The gap is left for structures that are inserted by the shelf over the side; strong fastening is guaranteed by the width of the latter being more than three gaps.

An alternative process technology eliminates gap filling operations. The rest of the preparation is similar.

Practitioners advise attaching a wooden beam (galvanized profile) treated with hydrophobic, antiseptic impregnations along the walls below the side, which serves as a support for the tank, formwork and filler. The solution is reinforced with nylon mesh.

Beam under the side of a cast iron model.

Wooden frame for an acrylic tank. Consoles from shaped steel.

Filling with mortar with mesh reinforcement. Significant distances require the construction of a frame sewn with gypsum fiber sheets.

Read more: how to seal a large gap between the bathtub and the wall.

Cutting, installation

After taking measurements, the workpieces are cut with a small allowance for adjustment. Factory-made corner links allow you to get by with straight cuts, otherwise a miter box that sets the slope of the ends will be useful. Remove burrs with sandpaper.

Trimming in a miter box.

They try on the elements, arrange them in their places, and finally adjust the length and connections. With a complex tray configuration, the plastic is bent by heating with a hairdryer.

Fitting

The type of plinth and installation method determine the nuances:

• When tiling the shower room, it is convenient to fix the baseboard in the tile mixture, placing a shelf under the tile. Temporary installation of a bathtub will help you maintain the exact installation level.
• The border, placed over the side, is glued to the wall.
• For prefabricated modifications, the mounting strip is glued level to the panel.
• “Swallow” models are glued to the partition and side, for acrylic - only to the wall.

Assembly sequence:

• Glue the purchased corners first (if you have them).
• Apply glue over the border support planes in a snake or a couple of solid lines. Apply glue.
• Install the part, press along the entire length, running your hand, hold until initial setting.

  
  We press

  
  Make sure the lock is fully closed.

• Remove excess sealant with a rag and white spirit.

  
  We remove unnecessary things.

• Load the corner until it sets.
• Wait for it to harden according to the instructions.
• Snap the end caps into place.
• Remove the tape.
• Check the quality, if you find a defect, carefully pry up the edge, coat the area, and press down.

Video lessons:

What are the benefits of corner-shaped borders?

In addition to its low cost, a plastic bathroom border has a number of advantages that often tip the scales in its favor.

Thus, there is no glue already applied to the baseboard, so you can choose the most suitable composition applicable specifically to your operating conditions. In this case, you will not have to scrape off the “native” glue, as often happens when using self-adhesive tape.

In addition, plastic bathroom borders in the form of a corner are very useful in cases where, as a result of installation, the gap between the wall and the edge of the washing container is quite wide.

A plinth made of self-adhesive tape is unlikely to close such a gap, and even if it is possible to cover the gap, then, most likely, such a border will come off quickly enough.

A plastic curb for a bathtub provides additional rigidity for fixing the bathtub, while it is practically not affected by vibrations and high humidity.

Sealing options

Choosing a sealing method for a bathtub

Before making a rim in the bathroom, you need to select a suitable material that will not only perform sealing functions, but also match the overall interior of the room. Today, for decorative seam sealing, the following are used:

• polyethylene adhesive tape;
• plastic corners;
• ceramic corners.

Each of the listed options differs not only in cost, but also in the installation process, as well as in service life.

How to choose a corner

When choosing a corner to close the gap between the bathtub and the tiles, you must consider:

• type of sealing element;
• device manufacturing material.

Types of bath corners

The main types of corners designed to eliminate gaps in the bathroom are:

• soft corners, which are made in the form of a tape;
• rigid corners made from various types of materials.

The advantages of soft tapes are:

• ease of installation, since in most cases the tape is supplemented with a self-adhesive base;
• low cost;
• ease of care. There is no need to purchase specialized products to clean the tape;
• diversity. Ribbons are available in different colors, sizes and shapes.

Self-adhesive bath tapes

Manufacturers produce two types of tapes:

• corner tape, which is intended to eliminate gaps no larger than 3 mm - 5 mm;
• curly tape to eliminate large gaps.

Differences between types of self-adhesive tapes

A significant drawback is the short service life, since over time and when exposed to moisture, the adhesive base loses its qualities.

Rigid corner corners are different:

• variety. For the manufacture of sealing elements, various materials are used, varying in quality and cost. In addition, corners are available in different shapes, colors and sizes;
• durability;
• minimal care.

Bath border

To reduce the complexity of installing a rigid corner, you can use special fittings made in the form of corners, plugs and other additional elements.

Additional items for easier installation

Materials used for making corners

Soft corners are made exclusively from PVC, and for the production of hard borders the following are used:

plastic. The plastic corner is characterized by minimal cost, a variety of shapes and colors, maximum level of tightness, and resistance to temperature changes. To clean the corner, it is not recommended to use products that contain abrasive substances, as this will negatively affect the surface of the sealing element;

Assortment of plastic corners

ceramics. The ceramic corner is highly durable and resistant to various phenomena (temperature changes, mechanical stress, and so on). Unlike plastic corners, ceramics can be cleaned using any chemical composition and this will not affect the quality of the glossy surface;

Ceramic Bathtub Sealing Corner

Ceramic corners are not recommended for installation on acrylic bathtubs, since it is impossible to achieve maximum contact between the surfaces and, as a result, complete tightness.

• acrylic (a type of plastic). The acrylic corner has an aesthetic appearance, unlike other types of plastic, a variety of models, but at the same time a higher cost. However, the difficulty of cleaning acrylic elements significantly reduces the possibility of their use. It is recommended to install acrylic corners on bathtubs made of the same material. In this situation, there is no need to purchase additional surface cleaning products;
• natural and artificial stone (marble, granite, etc.). Stone corners are distinguished by their presentable appearance, maximum stability and durability, as well as their large size and high cost.

Marble bath corners

Which corner is better to choose? It all depends on the user’s priority and the size of the budget, as well as the decoration of the bathroom, since the best corner is a corner that is completely compatible with the design of the room.

Types of borders

The most common are mineral and polymer based borders. The first type includes products made of marble, granite, ceramics and other similar materials, the second - made of plastic, foam plastic, polystyrene. Let's look at the main characteristics of both types.

Borders made of ceramics and stone have a more presentable appearance and are durable. With careful use, they can easily last 20 years, or even more, without losing their visual appeal. Thanks to their dense solid structure, they are resistant to acids and alkalis, can be easily cleaned of dirt, and are not affected by mold and other microorganisms. At the same time, these products are quite fragile and can crack and break from an accidental impact or heavy load.

Ceramic borders and corners for bathtubs

The glossy surface does not tolerate the use of abrasive cleaning agents, which causes scratches to appear on it. Installation of such borders requires more skill and accuracy in work. As a rule, they are chosen if the bathroom is lined with tiles, tiles, porcelain stoneware, because against the background of plastic cladding, ceramic elements do not look entirely organic.

Ceramic baseboard

PVC-based borders are quite diverse. They differ in shape, color, width, texture, and method of fastening. Plastic corners are manufactured in three versions - soft, semi-rigid and hard. Rigid borders often have elastic silicone or rubberized edges, which increases the adherence of the material at the joints. In addition, plastic elements can have a one- or two-part profile. One-piece borders are divided into internal (mounted under the cladding) and external (mounted on top of the tiles). Two-part ones are attached to the lined surface.

The advantages of plastic include, first of all, simplicity and ease of fastening. Even if the surface is not very flat, there are no particular difficulties with the fit of the curb. Thanks to the presence of corner elements, there is no need to cut and adjust parts at the joints yourself. The material is resistant to temperature changes and moisture, does not warp over time, and has a decorative appearance. The range of models is very wide, as is the price range. You can find PVC borders of excellent quality and at the same time inexpensive.

Plastic borders for bathrooms

As for the downsides: the surface of the plastic quickly loses its original shine, white borders turn yellow over time. Because of this, they look less aesthetically pleasing and attractive. Plastic can be damaged not only by an accidental blow, but also during the cutting process during installation, if you press hard from above. As a rule, such borders have to be changed every 3-4 years.

Rolled, or strip, borders are the fastest and cheapest option for filling gaps. Self-adhesive tape is highly elastic, waterproof, and easily attached to any surface.

Self-adhesive border tape

The material contains fungicides, so there is no risk of mold. Unlike ceramic and plastic borders, rolled ones do not crack under impacts and increased loads, are easy to cut, and can bend at any angle. If necessary, the tape is easy to replace.

Self-adhesive border tape

Bath border tape

This type of borders is not particularly diverse. Standardly, the tape has a single-color smooth surface, width 29, 40 and 60 mm, total length - 3.2 m. The most common are white and transparent tapes, but some manufacturers produce rolled borders in other shades - pink, blue, beige, green. The disadvantage of these products is their fragility - the service life is a maximum of 2 years.

Assortment of border tape

Bath border

Ceramic borders

More recently, ceramic tiles have been an important finishing material for plumbing fixtures.
And if there was a gap between the wall and the bathtub, you had to figure out how to make a border in the bathtub from tiles. It was quite difficult and diligent work: I had to cut small squares from the tiles, which were then used to form the slope from the wall to the bathtub. If the work was done conscientiously, the effect was absolutely decent. Now there is no such need.

In many construction stores, when you buy tiles for a toilet, they can immediately recommend favorable ceramic borders. But often they still have to be purchased separately. When choosing such a frame, you need to work hard so that the border matches the color of the tile itself.

In exceptional cases, you should choose a white border, then merging with the plumbing fixtures, it will not stand out from the uniform design.

In fact, all ceramic products are considered quite strong and hard. And therefore, of all the options that have been considered, ceramic borders will especially last a long time; they are virtually not subject to deformation and can be used without replacement for many years.

But you need to remember about the disadvantages of this option: it has poor resistance to mechanical damage, i.e. with a strong blow, such an object may prick.

In most cases, this kind of trouble occurs when installing ceramics, and already installed borders add to their own hardness the mechanical strength of the wall and bathtub and are virtually invulnerable.

Working with ceramic components requires specific skills, and therefore the best option is to entrust this process to specialists. If, for example, you personally agreed to take on this task, then it will be useful for you to read how to make a border in the bathroom from ceramic profiles (or baseboards).

Features of installation work

To work, you need to purchase the required number of blanks. Buy borders with a reserve (in case of damage), and also calculate how many corner-type elements you will need. You will also need specialized tile adhesive (it must be moisture resistant), sealant and grout. All work consists of several stages:

• Surface preparation. They must be very thoroughly cleaned and dried.
• Sealing the gap. If it is small, you can get by with silicone sealant. If, for example, the gap is large, it is sealed with foam for installation.
• Preparation of glue (according to the rules).
• Laying the border itself. How to glue a ceramic skirting board to a bathtub? Using a spatula, glue is applied to the back side of the parts, and they themselves lie close to each other so that there is no gap. Special corner components are placed in the corners. You need to give it a day to dry.
• Grout. The finished grout removes small gaps between the parts, and also between the wall and the baseboard.

Any of these types of borders has both its own advantages and disadvantages. When choosing an option for yourself, consider the entire interior of your bath. In any case, decorating your bathtub with a border will give it a complete and beautiful look.

Final work

1. 30-40 minutes after installing the border, carefully remove excess adhesive mixture;
2. apply white sealant to the junction of the baseboard with the wall and the bathtub (pre-apply masking tape to the decorative element, above and below it);
3. slightly move the edges of the corner with a knife or spatula and insert white sealant into the gap, distributing the composition evenly along the length of the entire seam;
4. remove the mounting tape.

Choose a skirting board for a bathtub carefully: take into account the characteristics of the materials from which the bathtub is made and the wall cladding, the style and design of the room. Subject to high-quality and competent installation, the decorative product will not only protect against mold, but will also become a real decoration of the bathroom.

Surface preparation and preliminary work

The technology for laying the border around the bathtub may be different, but preparation of the base is mandatory. You should clean the wall and edge of the bathtub with a good, high-quality detergent, then rinse with water and degrease. For the latter purpose, soda ash is used; if it is not available, regular soda or alcohol is used. Before gluing the baseboard, you need to make the surface dry. To do this, you can wipe the base with a lint-free cloth and dry it with a hairdryer. When you have to re-glue the headband, you must carefully scrape off the remnants of the old glue.

To glue the border, the following tools and materials may be useful (depending on the type of profiles, some will not be needed):

• glue or sealant;
• mounting gun;
• level, preferably laser;
• rubber spatula;
• sandpaper on a block;
• pliers;
• Bulgarian;
• roulette;
• construction tape;
• sharp knife;
• profiles of the required length.

Installing an angle on a new bathtub

When installing a new bathtub, the sequence of work and the type of corner used depend on the above factors that determine subsequent operations.

Installing a corner on a bathtub

However, the general order of work is as follows:

• The purchased bathtub is removed from the packaging and its sides are cleaned of dust and dirt, for which detergents and a sponge (soft rag) can be used;
• To install the bathtub, the elements of its fastening to the floor (legs, frame, podium, etc.) are mounted;
• On the surface of the wall adjacent to the bathtub, markings are made corresponding to the height of the side from the floor level;
• Further work is carried out depending on the type of plinth used.

Inner corner

When using a tile corner, installation is performed as follows:

• The surface of the wall and the side of the bathtub are degreased, the bathtub is installed close to the wall surface.
• A silicone sealant is placed in the gap between the wall and the side and time is given for it to harden.
• After the sealant has hardened and based on the markings made, the plinth is cut and installed.
• The plinth is attached in such a way that its lower (horizontal) strip rests on the side of the bathtub, and the vertical strip rests on the surface of the wall.
• For fastening to the wall, spacer dowels or other fasteners are used.
• The wall is finished using tiles, finishing panels or other waterproof material.

When using a corner on a tile, work is carried out in the following order:

• Preparing the wall and bathtub is carried out in the same way as when using a corner for tiles.
• The surface of the wall is being finished, while laying tiles and other finishing elements is carried out in accordance with the markings (from the top edge of the side of the bathtub).
• After finishing the wall, the bathtub is installed and the places where it adjoins the wall are sealed (similarly to the case discussed above).
• After the sealant has hardened, the baseboard is cut and using adhesives (sealant, mastic, liquid nails, etc.) the corner is attached to the wall and the horizontal edge of the bathtub.
• When installing a plinth, shaped parts (corners, connectors, etc.) are used; fastening is carried out by pressing the element to be fixed to the elements to be covered.

Outer corner

When using an external corner installed on the side of the bathtub, the key to successful operation in this case will be the correct preparation of the wall surface at the junction of the bathtub, as well as the correspondence of the dimensions of the baseboard to the dimensions of the bathtub.

The wall surface is cleaned of dust and dirt, after which the outer corner is placed on the side of the bathtub and glued to the wall surface using an adhesive layer.

Collapsible corner

When using a collapsible corner, its installation technology combines the methods of installing the corner under the tile and on its surface.

Initially, the internal component of a profile of this type is installed, and the work is performed as in the case of installing an internal corner going under the tile.

After this, the second part of the profile is mounted, for this purpose silicone and a special design are used that connects both components of the corner into a single whole (“tenon and groove”).

How to glue a plastic, tape baseboard to a bathtub, installation methods

Not a single wall in a building, including the walls in the bathroom, is perfectly straight - not to mention modern buildings. Moreover, during construction it is impossible to achieve absolute parallelism of opposite walls. Therefore, when installing a bathtub, there is always some kind of gap, a gap between the sides of the bathtub and the walls of the room, and as a result, water leaks on the floor and even higher humidity in the room.

There are many ways to seal these cracks. Every apartment owner comes up with something based on the circumstances. You can seal the gap, for example, with cement or some other suitable building material. However, the durability of such a “design” remains in doubt. The best solution is to glue a special baseboard to the bathtub.

This product is called differently: baseboard, border, bathroom corner. There are three main types of such skirting boards: tape, plastic and ceramic. There are also VIPs (made of marble, etc.), but they are a separate discussion, since they are not widely used.

Therefore, for self-installation it is better to use tape or plastic skirting boards. However, there are some differences in their installation, so we will briefly talk about each type of skirting board.

Plastic skirting board

It is considered the most economical and easiest to install type of borders. On sale there are not only straight skirting boards that are easy to cut, but also various corners. Therefore, with the help of such skirting boards you can reliably “insulate” a bath of any size and configuration. To fasten the plastic, liquid nails and silicone glue are used. The entire installation comes down to the correct marking of the elements of the overall edging of the bathtub and gluing them. One side is towards the bathtub, the other is towards the wall. Moreover, you can glue it both on the tile and “under” it (on the wall). This kind of work can be done by anyone, even an inexperienced person. The main thing is to then thoroughly seal the joints of the plinth strips and corners with sealant. However, you need to take into account that over time the edges of the plastic may “lift” and it will begin to let moisture through. Therefore, it is better to lay wall tiles on top of the baseboard.

General measures for both types of skirting boards:

1. prepare surfaces;
2. Pre-seal the gap with sealant;
3. After drying, apply liquid nails;
4. press the plinth (tape) tightly;
5. seal the joints;
6. thoroughly dry the gluing areas.

Choosing a curb for installation

They just can’t manage to close the joint between the bathtub and the wall - they use ordinary cement putty or glue plastic corners for the kitchen set.

But the following are specially designed for these purposes:

• Flexible self-adhesive tape. Used for temporary (one to two years) protection from moisture;
• Plastic corner. Designed for a much longer service life, which can be easily replaced when necessary - during a renovation of a room, when replacing a bathtub, or due to yellowing of the product itself.
• Border made of ceramics or natural stone. The most expensive option is used for good repairs and serves as reliable waterproofing.

In addition to the above products, borders made of polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene are often used. But since they are not moisture-resistant and are not intended for installation on the sides of the bathtub, there is no point in considering them further.

The border is matched to the color of the facing tiles or bathtub. Its width may vary and depend on the size of the joint

Option 1. Plastic corner for protection against moisture

A plastic border is the most practical way to close the joint between the wall and the bathroom. The service life of this product is not very long, but this is easily compensated by the fact that it is inexpensive and easy to install and dismantle.

It can be installed on or under tiles. There are many options on sale with different sizes, types of fastenings, any colors and shades.

A white plastic border may turn yellow over time, so you need to choose high-quality and not the cheapest products that are resistant to yellowing

Option #2. Border made of ceramic elements

A ceramic corner for a bathroom is often purchased complete with facing tiles or separately - their range is wide variety. Such a border provides reliable isolation of joints from leaks and has a long service life.

You can install the corner before and after wall cladding. If the border elements have the same dimensions as the tiles, then it is advisable to lay them in such a way that the seams match

Among the advantages of ceramic borders, the following can be separately noted:

• disinclination to yellowing;
• high mechanical strength;
• resistance to chemical effects of detergents.

Stone borders - marble, granite - should not be overlooked. They are used if this material has already been used in the interior, for example, for the production of a bathtub, washbasin, or as a decorative insert for wall cladding.

In terms of their properties, stone borders resemble ceramic ones, but are even more durable and give the setting a sophisticated look.

The choice of material for installing a ceramic border is usually determined by the screen made of tiles under the bathtub.

Option #3. Flexible border tape for insulating joints

A self-adhesive tape element is the easiest way to protect the space behind the bathtub from leaks. It is a polyethylene tape with an adhesive composition on the inside, which is covered with a protective layer.

The tape corner does not allow water to pass through and is able to withstand dynamic loads during expansion and contraction.

Such an element can be considered a temporary measure, which will sooner or later require replacement, since the adhesive composition applied to them is not of very high quality. In addition, when laying them it is difficult to achieve neat joints in the corners.

With a tape corner it will not be possible to achieve complete sealing of the joints, but you can at least somehow prevent the spread of moisture and delay time before repairs, buying a new bathtub or a better border

The selection of the option and method for arranging the joint between the plumbing fixtures and the wall should be focused on the type of material from which the bowl is made, the type of screen and wall decoration in the hygienic room.

Benefits of installing a corner bath

Bathroom design with a corner bathtub is becoming increasingly popular not only because of its ergonomics and aesthetic appeal, but there are many more benefits.

• Saving room footage.
• Easily fit into any interior style.
• Easy to install, does not require special skills.
• Surpasses traditional rectangular models in terms of filling capacity and displacement.
• The corner bath resembles a small swimming pool, where 2 people can easily fit, it can accommodate both lengthwise and crosswise.

Modern corner baths have built-in hydromassage, occupancy control and other useful functional additions.

A corner bath has a number of advantages

Corner bathtub is easy to install and does not require special skills

Modern corner baths have many different functions

Original solution

If you want aesthetics, plastic corners for the bathroom for some reason do not suit you, pay attention to... borders for kitchen units. Essentially these are the same plastic corners, they can be smooth or convex, equipped with corner elements and plugs to aesthetically cover the cut ends.

Their distinctive feature is that they all come with an elastic band, which additionally protects against leaks.

It is mounted in the same way as regular plastic corners.

The only drawback of such designs is that they cannot be bought everywhere. In kitchen showrooms, corners are often sold only as a set with the kitchen. But sometimes they can still be ordered separately. As an independent product, they can be found in large construction hypermarkets.

Ceramic border

Ceramic border for waterproofing

A ceramic border for a bathroom is considered the most beautiful type of design and is durable, although its installation requires much more time. Previously, to decorate the joint and seal it, it was necessary to cut borders from the remaining tiles, but today this is no longer necessary, since the production of ceramic corners has been established at an industrial level.

Such a corner between the bathtub and the wall is sold today in almost every building materials store. The product has a wide range of colors and design variations, which allows you to choose a model for almost every interior style. The material is highly durable and durable, although its installation process is a little more complicated than previous ones.

Important! Before choosing corners for bathroom tiles, you need to remember that this method of sealing the joint is not able to withstand bending stress and deformation, since it is laid on tile adhesive. It is better not to use this option for acrylic or steel bathtubs, but only for cast iron ones

• Before starting work, purchase the required number of curb modules with corner joints;
• clean and dry the joint;
• then seal the gap using polyurethane foam or silicone, depending on the thickness;

Color options for ceramic borders

For your information. At this stage, you need to decide how to glue the corner in the bathroom. If you have an acrylic bathtub, then it is prone to expansion when heated, which means it is better to use a sealant for the corner, which will provide elasticity when dried. If the bathtub is cast iron, then this material practically does not expand and in order to securely fix the bathtub corner, you can use ordinary tile adhesive.

• mix the tile adhesive and apply it to the joint using a spatula, then tightly lay the curb modules, saving space for grouting;
• After installing the border on the bathtub is completed, you need to wait a day until the tile adhesive has completely dried and then apply moisture-resistant grout for the joints.

Having studied the information presented above, you already know how to glue a corner to a plastic or ceramic bathtub yourself, which will allow you to significantly save money on repairs. And to consolidate the material, we suggest watching a video clip that will answer many questions.

Border adhesive

What is the best way to glue skirting boards if they are not self-adhesive? Typically, craftsmen advise laying them on sealant with silicone, and periodically changing the adhesive. Any sealant darkens from water (after 2-3 years) and gradually lags behind the wall. You have to remove the installed baseboard, clean and disinfect the wall and the edge of the bathtub, and reattach the material. If the quality of the sealant is poor, its service life can be reduced to 4-8 months, which depends on the intensity of use of the bathtub and the type of ventilation in the room.

There is a way out, you need to follow these tips:

1. Use the “correct” sealant, which is intended for aquariums. Thanks to antiseptic additives and a special composition, it does not darken and is not susceptible to mold.
2. Choose a white or transparent product (the latter usually costs more).
3. Buy only expensive sealant from a well-known brand. If the composition contains MS polymers, this gives high hydro-repellent properties (an example is “Moment Crystal”).
4. The elasticity of the sealant should be at a high level, this will allow the product to maintain its integrity even with small movements of the bath.

If there is no sealant, you can use other means. A reliable adhesive composition for borders with high moisture resistance and the addition of acrylic, silicone, and polymers is suitable. Liquid nails and tile adhesive are suitable.

The gap between the wall and the bathtub and the choice of border

If the bathtub was installed after finishing the walls, a gap will inevitably remain between its side and the wall. Large or not very much depends on how smooth the walls are and whether the bathtub itself is level. In any case, it is better to seal this gap. Firstly, there will be no dampness under the bathtub, and secondly, the appearance is better.

To choose a border for a bathtub, you need to proceed from the width of the gap. Depending on the distance to the wall, the installation sequence changes:

• If the distance between the bathtub and the wall is up to 3 cm, you can immediately install the side. Only its bottom shelf should be wide - it should be 3 times wider than the slot. And one more thing - in this case, only hard corners - ceramic or plastic - are suitable. It is better to glue the border tape with a small gap of a few millimeters or pre-seal it with a cement-sand mixture.
• If the distance from the side to the bathtub is more than 3 cm, it must first be sealed. There are three options: Attach the formwork from below, fill it with concrete, after setting (at least three to four days) you can continue work.

Having decided on the technology for sealing the gap, you can choose a border for the bathtub. It's not as easy as it seems - there are many different options, so you can get lost.

Read here how to restore the cover of an old bathtub.

Gluing tape

The easiest way is to lay curb tape at the joint. The figured one is somewhat different from the corner one - it has a middle longitudinal sector without an adhesive composition. It is necessary to make preliminary markings. The border is taped with paper tape at the required height, since it is difficult to wash off a pencil or marker from the surface of the tile. When finished, the tape can be removed.

Before installation, cut the border. For each section of the bathtub, you need to make an allowance of 2 cm. Then the profile is bent in the right place, heating it with a hot hairdryer. Once it becomes elastic, it will take on the desired shape. This is also necessary to ensure that the tape does not come off ahead of time. The installation instructions are as follows:

• start work from a corner;
• carefully separate the film from the tape in small sections - 15 cm each;
• At the same time, press the profile with the applicator; this must be done as firmly as possible (then the tape will stick more firmly);
• pay attention to the places of contact between the product and the tile seams;
• Place the border in the corners with special care; the overall appearance of the bathtub depends on this (the corner strip is left flat on top, cut from the bottom at an angle of 45 degrees approximately to the middle);
• Insulate the joints of the tape with sealant;
• Do not use the bathroom for 24 hours; then, if there are lagging areas, glue them with “liquid nails.”

Installation of plastic plinth

You need to install a plastic border in a different way, but the preparatory measures are similar. Next, you need to measure the length of the bathtub with a tape measure, make a mark on the border, and cut off the material. The easiest way is to immediately cut out elements equal to two sides of the bathtub. File the corners at an angle of 45 degrees. Next, glue paper tape 2 mm above and below the future corner so as not to stain it with glue.

The sequence of work is as follows:

• attach a piece of curb to the wall, press it;
• bend the corner at the top, leaving space between the wall and the curb;
• insert the tip of the gun, squeeze sealant or “liquid nails” into the gap;
• Carefully smooth out the sealant with a spatula;
• do the same with the bottom of the curb;
• press the corner firmly;
• After a few minutes, remove the tape.

If you decide to install a plastic border under the tile, this is done at the installation stage, but it can only be replaced with the tile. Due to the fragility of the material, this working technique is not recommended by specialists.

Adhesive ceramic corner

Laying ceramic corners is more difficult, but usually even beginners can do the job after a little training. The material is installed under the tiles as follows:

• Apply a layer of sealant between the bathtub and the wall, filling the gap evenly, level it with a spatula or a wet hand;
• mix tile adhesive according to instructions;
• cut borders for joints and corners at an angle of 45 degrees, using a grinder, a tile knife (you can use “biting off” with pliers, then sand the surface with sandpaper);
• start work from a corner;
• put tile adhesive on the back side of the borders, glue it to the joint, remove excess product with a spatula;
• continue installation, leaving minimal gaps between elements;
• the next day, pour water over the corners to seal the glue, and after another day, apply sealant or grout for the seams.

The border is mounted on the tiles in a different way. You need to treat the wall with “liquid nails”, press the ceramic corner to the wall, and perform similar actions for other elements (don’t forget to use a level). After the glue has dried, fill the seams with sealant.

Tips on how to install an anti-leak corner on a bathtub

Experts do not recommend using the bathtub until its edges have been sealed.

This can lead to:

• To mold;
• To the fungus;
• Excessive moisture.

The plastic border must be glued strictly according to technology so that the product fits tightly to the bathtub and to the wall. Only in this way can correct installation be carried out, in which the waterproofing will be correct and without defects. Due to the fact that the plinth is sold in large metres, when framing the bathroom you will need to first cut it into small elements. First, the corners are formed, then other parts are cut. Then fitting and gluing is required.

Corners or border tape on the bathtub must be glued strictly according to technology

The gap between the bathtub and the wall can be left free and closed with a corner, or it can be filled with silicone sealant to improve sealing. In this case, you will have to wait until the composition dries and only then install the corner. Special plugs are placed along the edges of the corner so that the finishing of the bathtub looks complete, and sharp cuts cannot cause a cut on the skin when using plumbing equipment.

Why is it difficult to join materials?

The tiles do not absorb moisture. The slippery glazed top layer prevents the raw material from absorbing not only water, but also fixing substances. It is very difficult to attach a foreign part to a wall or floor, so professionals prefer to screw the elements. The design with screws looks rough. If the operator moves inaccurately or lacks experience, the ceramic under the drill may burst.

Connection difficulties Source kvartal-club.com.ua

Advantages and disadvantages of using a plastic corner in the bathroom

Any building and finishing material is characterized by certain advantages and disadvantages that determine the possibility of its use in one capacity or another, its service life, as well as other distinctive features on the basis of which the consumer makes his choice.

For plastic corners or in other words - special skirting boards for a bath, the following indicators are the distinctive features below.

pros

• Low cost.
• Ease of installation work.
• Resistance to moisture and changes in ambient temperature.
• Plasticity, allowing for surface cladding that differs from straight geometric lines.
• Not subject to destruction when treated with chemicals (detergents).
• Easy to use and care.
• Reliability.

Minuses

• If installation is performed incorrectly, mold and mildew may form in the space between the corner and the elements of the enclosing structure (wall) and the bathtub.
• Limited service life compared to tile analogues.

Types of bathroom corners that protect against leaks

There are the following types of borders (plinths) that protect against leakage:

• ceramic;
• tape;
• plastic;
• silicone;
• from natural material (stone), etc.

Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Ceramic

Ceramic corners are stronger than their plastic counterparts. They have a longer service life compared to all other types of borders.

A large number of enterprises producing ceramic tiles began to produce corners in addition to them.

Installation of such elements is more difficult and time-consuming compared to plastic ones. It must be performed by a specialist.

An irrelevant option is to lay tiles cut into separate segments of the required length and width. This method is not modern and looks unaesthetic in the interior.

A large number of enterprises producing ceramic tiles began to produce ceramic corners in addition to them.

Silicone

Silicone curbs have similar characteristics to rubber ones. They are temperature resistant, flexible and elastic, and look beautiful.

They are suitable for non-standard bathtub designs, broken lines and uneven walls. Docking needs to be taken into account.

Their service life is 24 months, after which the glue with which they are attached loses its properties. Exposure to various chemical compounds destroys the material.

Tape self-adhesive

They have a one-sided sticky layer that sticks them to the surface.

They are easy to install. Before gluing the tape, you need to remove the protective film. The element is fixed on the walls and bathroom.

To increase the strength of such a structure, you need to treat the joint with silicone sealant.

Their service life is 5 years, after which the self-adhesive tapes need to be changed.

Made from natural stone

This finish looks representative, but its cost is quite high. It will serve for many years.

Natural stone finishing is used only for standard bathtubs with wide sides.

It is necessary to select the material for finishing the sides in accordance with the style and color scheme of the bathroom. It is best to combine it with high-quality natural coatings and designer plumbing fixtures.

Tape variations

If you need to instantly and cost-effectively remove gaps between your bathtub and a wall or sink and give the room a great look, then curb tape is great for this.
But do not forget that this curb will serve you no more than 2 years, and therefore this option can only be analyzed as short-term. Such tapes have a thickness of about 2 mm and are available in different widths. High-quality curb tape has excellent performance properties.

It is made from polyethylene or elastomer. One side of it is covered with butyl glue. Many border tapes contain fungicides that protect the bathroom from the formation of fungi and mold. This border is completely waterproof, will not crack, is easy to use, and thanks to its plasticity, it can be bent at any angle.

Features of installation work

Of course, first of all you need to purchase a border strip of the required width. In order not to make a mistake, measure the largest width of the gap between the wall and the bathroom. And now, the tape has been purchased, where to start, how to stick the border on the bathtub? Let's consider all the work steps and their distinctive characteristics.

1. You should carefully prepare the surface on which the tape will be glued. It must be cleaned of dirt and grease. You can use cleaning products and soda for this purpose. For degreasing, you can use gasoline or alcohol. If you are gluing the border a second time, then make sure that there is no old glue left on the surface of the wall and the bathroom. The surface must be completely clean and dry.
2. If the cracks are wide enough, it is better to carry out preparatory sealing. Silicone-based sealant for acrylic bathtubs is excellent for this.
3. When the silicone is completely dry, we begin gluing the border. As a rule, you can get by with the glue that is applied to the tape itself. To do this, you need to heat it with a repair hairdryer. But, this glue is not considered very durable. Also, when heated, the tape stretches somewhat, and when it cools down, it begins to shrink, which leads to its peeling off from the wall. And therefore it is better to use liquid nails for this. At this step, you need to stock up on this “miracle glue” and a gun for applying it to the planes.
4. Then you need to prepare pieces of tape of the required length. Plus, you need to remember that this length must be a couple of cm longer than the length of the plot on which it will be glued. Apply a thin layer of glue to the base of the tape and press it against the bathtub, and the other edge against the wall. It is better to start gluing from the corner, slowly removing the film in small pieces. Since the quality of the entire work depends on the pressing force, it is better to perform it with an assistant. Each area must be pressed for 20-30 seconds.
5. After finishing the work, it is necessary to seal the joints at the corners, and for 24 hours do not allow water to penetrate the curb.

If you follow everything exactly, you will get a beautiful look for your bathtub.

Rules for selecting and installing self-adhesive tape

Borders with a sticky backing layer are really easy to install. But when purchasing them, you should consider:

• Best before date. Expired products do not provide the required level of tightness or they cannot be glued at all.
• Width of the baseboard. A wide tape does not look very aesthetically pleasing on the bathtub, and a narrow one cannot properly close the gaps.
• The shade of the decorative material is selected to match the color of the walls and sanitary equipment available in the room.
• Length. A standard roll has a length of 350 cm. If the font has large dimensions, buy two packages.

Any home craftsman can install a self-adhesive border correctly. It is necessary to clean the surfaces of the bathtub and tiles, sand them (if necessary), treat them with alcohol or another solution to degrease them.

The bases prepared in the described manner are dried with a hairdryer. The tape is folded along the fold. The protective coating is removed from it. The plinth is glued and pressed firmly. The work is completed. Now water will not flow through the cracks under the tiles.

Corner installation

The process of installing a corner depends on its type. However, before performing installation work, it is recommended to prepare the surface.

Preparing to install the corner

How to glue a corner to a bathtub? First of all, it is necessary to thoroughly prepare the surface, which will increase the level of adhesion between the corner and other surfaces and, as a result, ensure the necessary tightness and extend the life of the element.

The preparation process takes place in the following sequence:

• cleaning from the old corner (when replacing the sealing device);
• alignment of walls and bathtub, which will ensure a tighter fit;
• complete cleaning from all types of contaminants;
• degreasing;
• maximum drying (if there is no time for drying, you can use a hair dryer);

The corner will stick more firmly to a completely dry surface.

applying sealant to the gap, which will increase the level of protection. It is recommended to use only moisture-resistant sealing compound.

Applying a sealing compound to the gap

Installation of self-adhesive tape

Installation of self-adhesive tape begins from one of the corners of the bathtub in the following sequence:

• removing the protective layer by 10 cm - 15 cm;
• gluing the tape in compliance with the dimensions;
• a fold is formed in the corner, which is subsequently cut and sealed.

Soft tape gluing process

You can use the bathtub 24 hours after installation work is completed. This is the time required for the glue to dry completely.

Installation of hard curbs

Installation of hard corners is done as follows:

• the surface of the bathtub and the wall is covered with masking tape to prevent contamination during the work;
• an adhesive composition is applied to the corner between the wall and the bathtub, as well as to the edge of the bathtub and the wall (the adhesive can be applied directly to the corner);
• a corner cut to size is glued;
• seams formed when the corner and bathtub (wall) come into contact are treated with sealant;
• is expected until the used compounds have completely dried.

Installation of a hard corner on a bathtub

The process of installing a plastic border is presented in the video.

If all conditions are met, the selection and installation of a sealing element for a bathtub can be done independently, without the help of professionals.

Plumbing

Method six: installing a bathtub

Installation of a steel bathtub on corners fixed to the walls.

The Soviet-style cast-iron bathtubs that were familiar to us from our childhood were distinguished by their enviable stability: it was impossible to upset the balance of a plumbing fixture weighing more than a hundredweight by sitting on its side. Alas, modern steel and acrylic bathtubs cannot boast of this. A small push or uneven load is enough for the bathtub to move.

If the device is installed in a niche or at least in a corner, the problem can be solved simply: under the shelves adjacent to the wall, it is enough to screw steel corners measuring at least 30x30 millimeters.

Mounting corners are also included in the standard kit for fastening acrylic bathtubs. However, I personally have serious doubts about their strength: a plastic or galvanized corner no more than a millimeter thick is unlikely to hold a full bathtub weighing 2-3 hundred kilograms.

Method seven: installing a wall-mounted mixer on the side of the bathtub

Another type of corner is used for on-board installation of a wall-mounted mixer.

Mounting kit for faucet on the edge of the bathtub.

Why is this necessary? Why not just buy an onboard faucet?

You see, the range of on-board installed devices is much smaller than wall-mounted ones, and their price is much higher. In addition, wall-mounted faucets are much more repairable: shower switches, faucets, spouts and cartridges have standard sizes for all manufacturers.

How to install a faucet with your own hands using these corners? The instructions are quite simple:

1. Holes with a diameter of 22 millimeters are drilled into the bathtub shelf (this is the outer diameter of a 1/2-inch pipe thread). To mark the holes, the mixer should be screwed to the corners;

If you don't have a drill of this diameter, drill the shelf with the thickest drill bit in your tool kit and widen the holes with a drill with a cone or a round file.

1. Rubber or silicone gaskets are placed on the threads of the corners. If you don't have spacers of the required size on hand, cut them from an old car or bicycle inner tube;

Often gaskets and nuts are included with adapters.

1. The corners are inserted into the holes in the bathtub shelf;
2. From below, another pair of gaskets and washers (brass or galvanized) are put on;
3. The washers are tightened with 1/2-inch locknuts;
4. The thread below the locknuts is used to attach nuts of flexible hoses or, which is much more reasonable, fittings for metal-plastic or stainless steel pipes. The installation of the mixer itself is no different from that when mounted on a wall.

Method eight: assembling a water pipeline

Angle fittings are used to connect water pipes at right angles. They are needed:

• When installing a wall-mounted mixer on a steel connection;

Let me clarify: when using corrugated stainless steel, plastic or metal-plastic pipes, the corner is equipped with ears for attaching to the wall and is called a water socket.

The photo shows a single water socket for polypropylene water supply.

• When turning the eyeliner at right angles.

How to secure a pipe in a fitting and ensure a tight connection? The method quite predictably depends on the type of fitting:

• A pipe with an external thread is screwed into the threaded angle. For sealing, sanitary flax, FUM tape or polymer thread sealant are used. The winding must be wound around the thread at the end of the pipe along the threads of this thread;

Plumbing linen will last much longer if you apply a little paint or silicone sealant to it. Impregnation will prevent flax from rotting in cold water and fading in hot water.

A threaded angle with 1/2 and 3/4 inch threads is used to connect an instantaneous water heater to a water tap.

• To connect the angle with a metal-plastic pipe, a compression fitting with a split ring and a union nut that compresses it is used, as well as a press fitting - a stainless sleeve that is pressed onto the pipe with a fitting inserted into it using manual or electric pliers;
• Polypropylene pipes are connected by low-temperature soldering: the outer surface of the pipe and the inner surface of the angle are melted by the heating element of the soldering iron and aligned with each other. After the molten polymer hardens, the strength of the connection is almost as good as that of a solid pipe;

Polypropylene corner on the connection to the boiler.

• To connect polyethylene pipes, compression fittings are used (structurally almost the same as for metal-plastic), electrofusion angles (with a built-in heating coil that allows the fitting to be fused to the pipe) and butt welding. The latter method is used for pipes with a wall thickness of 4 millimeters or more;
• Pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene have shape memory: if such a pipe is stretched, after a short time it will return to its original size. The fittings for them are ordinary herringbone fittings with metal or polyethylene sleeves. The pipe is stretched with a special tool - an expander - and put on the fitting, after which it is fixed with a sleeve.

Functions of a plastic corner

It was already mentioned above that plastic borders cannot completely protect against moisture. But this is not his main task. The panels should only mask the sealant, which should protect against moisture.

To install a border on a PVC bathtub, you usually need a full container of silicone.

The self-adhesive corner does not require any additional components. It is completely ready to use. However, it requires a flat surface. If uneven surfaces are not corrected, water may leak underneath them.

Selection of materials

When installing skirting boards to the side of a bathtub, special attention should be paid to the choice of adhesive. It is advisable that it be transparent, because

the composition may protrude beyond the edges of the part.

After the adhesive has dried, its excess is removed. This can be done using a strong solvent or improvised means, although this option is not always possible. A bathtub made of PVC cannot be cleaned this way - the adhesive from its surface should be removed with white spirit. What is needed to attach the curb and how to install it

• metal or rubber spatula;
• hair dryer for drying surfaces;
• knife;
• tape measure;
• if necessary, use a hacksaw or grinder;
• mounting gun;
• Scotch tape and mounting tape.

If a curb was previously installed on the bowl, it must be removed and the dirt formed under it must be cleaned off. This should be done with a cloth or sponge soaked in water with chlorine. After this, the surfaces are degreased and dried. The adhesive tape is attached 2 centimeters above the place where the border will be installed. The adhesive should be applied starting from the corner joints. The composition must be laid evenly. The space between the wall and the corner must be sealed. In this case, the sealant should be silicone. Sealing is best done using a mounting gun. To avoid accidentally staining the tiles and bathtub bowl, mounting tape should be glued under the plastic corner and at a distance from its edge. The edge of the plinth is bent with a spatula, after which the border from the inside is filled with silicone compound. Its layer is then leveled with a rubber spatula. These actions are carried out both with the upper and lower edges of the plinth. Corner joints must be especially carefully filled with sealant.

It is not difficult to install the corner yourself. But you need to approach the choice of the product itself very carefully. Inspect the plastic for damage such as scratches, nicks, and dents. The baseboard should bend easily at the edges and be durable. Plastic strips are much cheaper than ceramic ones, and in most cases are not inferior to them in terms of reliability, functionality and aesthetics. A ceramic product also requires a careful approach. The border must be smooth and without flaws. The ceramic corner looks very beautiful and greatly transforms the bowl, while at the same time performing its direct function - sealing the joints.

A properly installed ceramic border can last for decades. Fastening such an element is more difficult, but it can also be done without the help of others.

Glue the corner to the arch

A finishing element such as an arched corner is used to decorate curved structures. Such corners, like ordinary straight ones, protect corners, prevent paint from falling off and rubbing off, and clearly highlight the shape of structures.

The corner on the arch can be attached in the following ways:

• Glue with glue - the gluing pattern is similar to vertical corners;
• Secure with self-tapping screws;
• Secure with nails without heads.

The last two options slightly spoil the appearance of the corner, as they are noticeable and can leave cracks or bend the corner.

In addition to PVC arched corners, there are also perforated ones. They are attached as follows:

• The tightly pressed corner is adjusted to the surface with staples;
• Next, a solution of gypsum plaster is applied to it with a spatula, which is pressed tightly;
• After the plaster has dried, it is sanded with a mesh or sandpaper.

Bath Curb Installation Instructions

Let's look at the procedure for installing plastic and ceramic borders in more detail, since it is a little more complicated than gluing tape. First, make your choice and do not forget to follow the rules of interior design: economical PVC is not suitable for a room with expensive cladding, and exclusive ceramics do not combine with budget tiles or plastic panels.

Ceramic corner installation technology

If the tile collection does not have corner elements, select similar style and color pieces from other collections or take a universal white option. The total length of the elements must coincide with the length of the areas of contact between the bathtub and the walls (taking into account the “stars”). We recommend adding one detail in case of breakdown.

To avoid cutting out corners from pieces of border, try to find a set that includes either three-sided concave “stars” or elements with diagonal ends

For installation on a wall, in addition to the border, you will need tile adhesive, waterproof grout, sealant, spatula and sponge. You should start by preparing the base - removing old material, washing and drying. Then we perform the following steps:

• we fill the gap with a material that ensures tightness (sealant is suitable for a narrow gap, polyurethane foam is suitable for a wide gap);
• prepare the tile adhesive strictly according to the instructions;
• We begin laying the elements from the corner: smear the back surface with glue and carefully press it to the base;
• We leave a small space between the individual parts - as when laying tiles;
• if the last element is longer than necessary, cut off the excess fragment with a grinder or carefully bite it off with pliers;
• let it dry for a day, and the next day we fill all the cracks with grout, immediately removing the residue with a damp sponge.

If there is no corner “asterisk”, cut out a similar part from a straight blank. Instead, you can cut two corner pieces at an angle of 45º, like a ceiling plinth. To make the edges of the cut fragments look neat and natural, we grind them.

When filling the wall gap with sealant, use a special gun - this way the material will be used more efficiently and the result will look neater

If the bathtub is already installed and the wall is tiled, the ceramic corner can be fixed in a simpler way - by placing it on “liquid nails”, filling the gaps with sealant.

Video instructions for installing a ceramic border:

The finished result: a bathtub with a white ceramic border: