What is drying oil? Description, characteristics, scope and price of drying oil

Repair work includes the use of various paint and varnish liquids. They perform a decorative and insulating function and increase the service life of materials. One of these mixtures is drying oil. This is a special solution that forms a thin film on the surface of the product. It protects the material from the negative effects of aggressive environmental factors.

What is drying oil needed for? Where is it used?

GOST 7931-76

Natural drying oil is obtained from linseed or hemp oils by heating the drying oils with metal oxides (driers) or by oxidation, that is, by blowing air through the oil. Cobalt, manganese or lead salts of acids are used as driers. Natural drying oils are a high-quality film-forming material that provides weather-resistant coatings. Used for the manufacture of oil paints for any purpose.

Drying oil oxol. GOST 190-78

Drying oil oxol is a solution of oxidized condensed vegetable oil and drying agent in gasoline solvent (white spirit). Depending on the raw materials used, drying oil oxol is produced in the following brands:

• B - from linseed or hemp oils. Intended for the preparation of oil paints used for external and internal work, with the exception of painting the floor;
• PV - from sunflower, soybean, safflower, corn, grape or camelina oils. Intended for the preparation of oil paints used for interior work, with the exception of floor painting, as well as for primers and putties.

Unlike natural drying oil, a coating prepared with oxol drying oil dries faster, but is more fragile and less durable. In practice, oxol drying oils can be distinguished from natural drying oils by the strong smell of the solvent. Approximate composition of oxol drying oil: oil - 50%, drier - 3%, white spirit - 47%.

Story

Boiled butter (butter that has undergone heat treatment) has been known for a long time. Even in Ancient Egypt, boiled oil was used to prepare medicines, aromatic substances, and cosmetics. Boiled butter was used in almost the same way in Ancient Rome.

Natural drying oil is quite expensive. It has been used to coat wooden furniture, to enhance sanded or carved wood surfaces, and as a coloring agent with or without the addition of natural pigments. Oil paints for artists (oil painting) are prepared on the basis of drying oil.

In the 19th century, other substances were found that prevented damage to wooden surfaces and wood products from moisture or pests. The use of drying oil has decreased, but its production has not been abandoned. Work began to find its substitutes or means that would make its production cheaper.

Synthetic drying oils

Synthetic substances similar in appearance to drying oil and intended for the same purposes are traditionally called drying oils, although they are made from petroleum, shale oils, resins with solvents, and waste from the production of synthetic rubber. Their properties are worse than those of “natural” drying oils: they are darker, dry more slowly, have low moisture resistance and weak film (with the exception of pentaphthalic and glyphthalic drying oils).

Synthetic drying oils are intended mainly for diluting dark paints, preparing putties and priming metal, wood or plastered surfaces indoors.

Drying oil polydiene

Consists of polydiene, glycerin ether of rosin, lead-manganese fused drier and gasoline solvent. It is possible to add substandard oxidized vegetable oil.

Drying oil oligodivinylstyrene

A product obtained as a result of co-oligomerization of styrene, dissolved in gasoline, solvent or xylene.

Among synthetic drying oils, the exceptions are glypthal and pentaphthalic drying oils, which are obtained as products of joint processing of the corresponding resins and natural drying oils. They are 50% solutions of medium-fat glyphthalic resin or fatty pentaphthalic resin in white spirit with the addition of a drier. Coatings formed by paints prepared on these drying oils are superior in strength to coatings prepared on natural drying oils.

Why is this necessary?

Painting concrete solves several problems at once:

So, in a bathhouse with its periodic heating there will be much more dust than in a constantly heated workshop;

In addition: dusting is greatly increased by mechanical wear of the floor and vibration. A car driving into a garage, a lathe running, a bar falling onto a platform - they all raise concrete dust.

Painted concrete floor in a gym.

Combined drying oils

Combined drying oils are a mixture of vegetable oils and synthetic drying oils.

Designed for preparing ready-to-use and thickly grated oil paints, as well as for priming various materials.

Composite drying oils are a solution of oxidized vegetable oil in gasoline, to which KF-287 rosin varnish is added. When making drying oil, it is allowed to replace sunflower oil (no more than 5%) with mustard, castor, stone, corn, rapeseed, camelina, and cottonseed oils.

Varieties of drying oils

There are several varieties of the product. The first type includes natural formulations containing oils of natural origin. Plus they are safe for human health. Hemp, flaxseed, and sunflower oils are used. The drying process takes at least a day. Other types:

• Semi-natural, a little more than half of the total mass uses sunflower oil (50-55%), white spirit and drier are also added. The downside is the pungent smell. Forms a dense film that protects the surface well from moisture and retains color brightness for a long time;
• Combined type, here more oil is added to the composition (70%), other elements are a diluent and siccatives. Most often used for diluting paint and varnish products;
• Alkyd. They contain little heat-treated oil; the other components are alkyd resin and driers. It smells strong and is inexpensive;
• Synthetic look. It is characterized by low cost, the composition uses products of oil refining and the coal industry, is produced in different colors, and has a pungent smell;
• Composite, due to toxicity, are only suitable for outdoor work.

Drying oil forms a dense film that protects the surface well from moisture and retains the brightness of the color for a long time.

SAFETY REQUIREMENTS

3.1. Drying oil oxol is a toxic and flammable liquid, dangerous at elevated temperatures, which is due to the properties of the solvents and oils included in its composition. The toxicity and fire hazard characteristics of the solvents included in drying oil oxol are given in Table 2.

table 2

The fire and explosion hazard indicators of drying oil oxol are given in Table 3.

Table 3

(Changed edition, Amendment No. 1, 2).

3.2. During the production, testing and use of oxol drying oil, fire safety requirements in accordance with GOST 12.1.004 and GOST 12.3.005 must be observed, the premises must be equipped with fire fighting equipment in accordance with GOST 12.4.009.

3.2.1. Work on opening metal packaging must be carried out with tools that do not produce a spark upon impact.

3.2.2. In case of fire, use all fire extinguishing means (chemical foam, water vapor, finely sprayed water, inert gas, asbestos sheet).

3.3. In the premises for storing and using oxol drying oil, the presence of open fire is prohibited; artificial lighting and electrical equipment must be explosion-proof.

3.4. Personal protective equipment - according to GOST 12.4.011.

3.2-3.4. (Changed edition, Amendment No. 1).

3.5. All work related to the manufacture, testing, use and storage of oxol drying oil must be carried out in rooms equipped with supply and exhaust ventilation or well ventilated. (Introduced additionally, Amendment No. 2). (Changed edition, Amendment No. 1, 2) .

5.4. Determination of acid number - according to GOST 5476. For dissolution, use a mixture of one part of ethyl alcohol and two parts of ethyl ether or a mixture of equal volumes of ethyl alcohol and benzene according to GOST 5955, or a mixture of equal volumes of ethyl alcohol or toluene according to GOST 5789.

5.5. Determination of the mass fraction of non-volatile substances - according to GOST 17537, section 1. In this case, 1.5-2.0 g of drying oil is placed in a cup, weighed and the result is recorded to the second decimal place. The contents of the cup are distributed by rotation into a thin layer along the bottom of the cup. Then the cup is placed in a drying cabinet and dried for 15 minutes at a temperature of (140 ± 2) ° C, after which the cup is cooled in a desiccator, weighed and the result is recorded to the second decimal place. Subsequent weighings are carried out every 5 minutes of drying. The mass is considered constant if the difference between the results of subsequent weighings does not exceed 0.01 g. Calculations are carried out to the first decimal place. The permissible absolute discrepancy between the results of two parallel determinations should not exceed 1%. (Changed edition, Amendment No. 2).

5.6. Determination of sludge by volumetric method - according to GOST 5481 without heating.

5.7. Determination of transparency - according to GOST 5472, while the drying oil is poured into a cylinder with a capacity of 10 cm or into a test tube made of colorless glass according to GOST 25336. (Changed edition, Amendment No. 1).

5.8. Determination of flash point in a closed crucible - according to GOST 12.1.044. (Changed edition, Amendment No. 2).

Prevention

You can prevent paint poisoning if you follow a number of requirements:

• work in special clothing that covers all parts of the body;
• if paints and varnishes come into contact with the skin and mucous membranes, rinse immediately with plenty of running water;
• work only using personal protective equipment (goggles, respirator, gloves);
• ensure effective ventilation in the room where work is being carried out;
• When working with paint for a long time, take regular breaks, during which you can breathe fresh air.

Acrylic paints are the safest because they do not contain solvents and dry quickly. An alternative to acrylic dyes are water-based dyes, which do not have a strong odor and are not susceptible to moisture.

Video from YouTube on the topic of the article:

The information is generalized and is provided for informational purposes. At the first signs of illness, consult a doctor. Self-medication is dangerous to health!

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Cosmetic or major repairs are not only fraught with significant expenses - they can cause significant damage to health. The fact is that most paints and varnishes have a high degree of toxicity. If safety regulations are not followed, their fumes penetrate the body and cause intoxication.

The chemical composition of such materials contains salts of heavy metals - copper, lead, zinc and arsenic. In addition, to obtain a rich shade, synthetic dyes are introduced into solutions. But the greatest danger is posed by highly volatile solvents:

• acetone;
• toluene;
• butanol;
• solvent;
• dimethyl ketone;
• trichlorethylene;
• butyl acetate;
• carbon tetrachloride.

Through the mucous membranes they enter the blood and spread throughout all internal systems. The relatively safe dosage of a chemical varies depending on the degree of toxicity of the toxic substance and the individual characteristics of the body. Intoxication poses the greatest danger to young children, allergy sufferers, and people with chronic respiratory pathologies and weakened immune systems.

Oxol

Before getting acquainted with the features of oxol, you should understand what any drying oil is and what its purpose is. This is a liquid film-forming agent consisting of vegetable oils and additives subjected to thermal action. The product is otherwise called “boiled butter”. When applied to wood, it undergoes polymerization and turns into a dense film that protects the surface.

There are different types of drying oil, one of them is semi-natural or oxol. According to GOST, the proportion of natural components present in such a product must be at least 55%. Partial replacement of oils with polymer resins is allowed - no more than 40%.

The “B” marking on the impregnated packaging implies that only the following types of oils were used to make the product: linseed and hemp. The designation “PV” means that the oxol contains non-edible types of oils.

felt boots 11 Sep 2014

This is interesting. My drying oil is not linseed or hemp (you can find these types of linseed oil), so does that mean it doesn’t need to be covered at all? If it doesn't dry completely.

Use modern impregnation agents. With several layers, you will get a varnished surface.

Use modern impregnation agents. With several layers, you will get a varnished surface.

The easiest way to find out is to conduct a test on a small surface using drying oil and various varnishes, of course, if there is such an opportunity.

In my opinion, it would probably be easier to take something like a one-component varnish with UV protection. When applying the first layer, add 15-20% thinner, and for subsequent layers without it.

Operating principle

Many vegetable oils, when exposed to air, under the influence of oxygen, light and heat, thicken, and in a thin layer they “dry out” (polymerize), turning into a semi-solid mass. This characteristic property is inherent in those vegetable oils that contain polyunsaturated fatty acids, in particular linoleic and linolenic acids. The more glycerides of unsaturated fatty acids in the oil and the higher its iodine value, the greater the drying ability of the oil. The oils that have the highest content of glycerides of linolenic and linoleic acids are: flaxseed oil - with up to 80% content (iodine number 175-204) and hemp oil - with up to 70% content (iodine number 145-167). Other oils, such as sunflower, poppy, walnut, containing from 30 to 50% linolenic acid glycerides, dry out weaker and more slowly. Vegetable oils: rapeseed oil, olive oil (iodine number 75–94), etc., containing only traces of linolenic acid, do not have the ability to dry out (however, olive oil thickens). Castor oil does not dry out or thicken. The iodine number of the oil decreases as it dries. Mineral oils do not contain unsaturated fatty acids, and therefore are not subject to polymerization in air (do not dry out).

Vegetable oil in its natural form, even with a high content of linolenic acid, oxidizes extremely slowly. To reduce drying time, the oil is subjected to heat treatment with the addition of metal compounds (driers). When heated, substances that slow down hardening decompose in the oil, and metal salts provide faster oxidation. In this way, drying oils are obtained - compositions that, within 6-36 hours (depending on the composition, preparation technology and additives used) after application to the surface, turn into a hard, elastic film. Most modern drying oils have a drying time of about a day.

Wood processing

To saturate wood with drying oil, the product must first be prepared. The wood must be degreased, cleaned of dirt and dust, and dried. You can apply the liquid with a brush, roller, spray bottle, rag made of natural fabric, or place the entire product in the impregnation for a long time.

Here are some ways to impregnate wood.

1. Hot impregnation. Processing takes place in a water bath; this method is especially suitable for impregnating small wooden products. The product is placed in a container with a heated solution for 4-8 hours, then dried for about 4-5 days. If you add 2-3% lead lead to the drying oil, the surface can dry out a little earlier, in 2-3 days.
2. Drying oil with kerosene. These components are mixed in equal proportions. You can use either a hot solution (the product needs to soak for 3 hours) or a cold solution (impregnation will take 1-2 days). The approximate drying time of the product is 2-3 days.
3. Drying oil, paraffin and turpentine. You will need 5 parts of drying oil, 1 part of turpentine and 8 parts of paraffin. You can use a calculator to accurately calculate the number of components. First, the paraffin is dissolved in turpentine using a water bath, then drying oil is added and the solution is thoroughly mixed. The mixture is applied hot to the surface. Dries completely in 2-3 days.
4. Drying oil with wax. A mixture of 20 parts of drying oil and 3 parts of crushed wax is made and applied to the surface. With this method of impregnation, the drying time will be 2-3 days.
5. Impregnation in a plastic bag. Take a bag (necessarily a whole one!), pour a certain amount of drying oil into it. Then we put a wooden product in it, wrap it in a bag and seal it with tape. It takes several hours to soak. The method is convenient for impregnating small products.

When processing, it is necessary to apply a sufficiently large amount of drying oil to the product, because the wood needs to be well saturated. If necessary, after drying, apply another layer - the treatment can be repeated if the wood still absorbs the solution.

How much impregnation will you need to treat the surface? The calculation will be easier to do if you remember that the consumption rate of linseed oil per 1 sq.m. wood is from 80 to 100 grams. These standards may vary depending on the type of solution and external factors.

Drying oil: technical characteristics of types

Today there are several types that differ in composition and scope. Let's look at each type separately.

Natural

This variety is considered a more environmentally friendly and safer species for human health. The drying agent included in the composition is contained in a small amount, so the drying time will be slightly longer than with other types. Natural drying oil is light yellow in color, without otherworldly impurities in the form of sediment at the bottom of the container.

According to the current GOST, this type must meet the following technical characteristics:

• ratio of driers to oils - 3:97%;
• no unpleasant pungent odor;
• high-quality drying oil dries at a temperature of 20–22 degrees;
• complete drying occurs within a day;
• product density – 0.94–0.95 g/m. cubic;
• acidity should not exceed 5 mg/KOH;
• phosphorus-containing elements should not exceed 0.015%.

Natural drying oil is used when painting wooden frames of various furniture. The composition allows no further processing of the material with varnish or paint. When impregnated, the wood does not lose its decorative qualities.

Semi-natural (oxol)

The composition includes natural oils, which are contained in smaller quantities. Usually this is 55% of the total volume. Dilute the base with a solvent and standard driers. Oxol belongs to a lower price category than others.

It is customary to label Oxol, so the following brands can be purchased in construction stores:

• marking B - can be used as an additive to paints and varnishes for external painting;
• PV brand – for preparing putties;
• brand SM - dilute the primer for treating walls and ceilings.

Oxol is not suitable for treating wooden flooring, as it will be destroyed under constant mechanical stress. Also, the solvent contained in large quantities gives a pungent odor to the material. The specific aroma does not disappear for a long time. Finishing treatment is necessary, since the surface treated with oxol quickly wears out and deteriorates.

Combined

This type is obtained by oxidation of natural oils (semi-drying and drying), for example, linseed, castor, cottonseed. The ratio of solvent to oils is 30:70%.

Combined drying oil is used quite rarely for finishing work. It is mainly used for making paints (oil). Brands of this oil:

• K 2, K 4, K 12 - used for interior finishing work;
• K 3, K 5 - used for external work, for example, for processing concrete facades and basement parts.

Brands K3 and K2 have become widespread. The composition of these drying oils includes a solvent, a small part of driers and oils. The liquid is transparent and has a slight tint. The coating layer dries within 24 hours. K3 quickly creates a dense film. Therefore, to obtain an even coating, you need to work with it quickly.

Combined drying oil is most often used to coat small wooden parts. To do this, oil paints are brought to the desired consistency. Brand K2 has a darker shade and is intended for treating ceilings and walls.

Synthetic

The main difference from other types is the replacement of vegetable oils with synthetic oils. There are no GOST characteristics for this type. All norms for the ratios of substances are regulated by technical specifications. Typically, such drying oils, not according to GOST, are cheap, and accordingly the quality is much lower than other types. Protective and water-repellent properties are very low.

Such a coating quickly becomes unusable under external influences. Synthetic oil has a very strong chemical odor, so using it indoors is highly undesirable. This oil can cause serious harm to health. It is mainly used for the production of putty and plaster mixtures.

There are two exceptional varieties of synthetic drying oil:

• pentaphthalic;
• glyphthalic.

They are produced by processing natural oils and various resins. Paints diluted with this drying oil form a dense and even layer. The durability of the coating is superior to natural and semi-natural drying oils.

Compositional

The composition includes natural oxidized oils and gasoline diluted with varnish (rosin). There can be one or several oils. Mostly rapeseed, corn, and cottonseed oil are added.

Oil-rubber drying oil is the most used in work. This species has two brands that differ from each other in composition:

• K1 based on rubber. It is used for painting work both indoors and outdoors;
• MK-2 is used as a primer. They are used to treat the surface before applying paint directly.

Ways to neutralize odor after renovation

There are several ways you can find out how to get rid of the smell of drying oil after applying it. It's better to start with simpler options and then move on to more complex ones. It is important to follow these recommendations.

1. Ventilating the premises is the easiest action to take if there is an unpleasant odor. In summer, you can leave the windows and doors open for three days. In winter, periodic access to fresh air through the windows is enough, so the smell disappears faster.
2. If the surfaces inside the apartment have not been opened with varnish, then smoke treatment is performed. To do this, 48 ​​hours after airing, take a roll of newspapers, preferably old ones, and set them on fire. The paper should smolder. They fumigate the rooms one by one, paying special attention to the places where drying oil was applied and a persistent smell remained. This method is very popular. You can also light several candles, including aromatic ones, in the rooms where you worked with drying oil.
   

   Attention! It is necessary to close the room with smoke for 20 - 30 minutes, and then ventilate again.

3. Additional products that are placed throughout the rooms will help remove the smell of drying oil. These include containers of water, jars of salt, soda with ammonia or coffee. Moreover, it is enough to turn whole grains daily, having previously laid them out on sheets of paper.
4. After coating with drying oil, wet cleaning is carried out. Add mustard to the water at the rate of 2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water. A solution of vinegar essence or ammonia will help reduce the smell. To do this, 15 ml of the active substance is diluted in 5 liters of water.
5. Charcoal, which is placed indoors, has absorbent properties.

Treatment with drying oil remains a popular method of coating products and surfaces. Following the application rules and recommendations after completion of the repair will prevent unpleasant moments, as well as quickly eliminate the consequences in the form of an unpleasant odor.

Kinds

Today, manufacturers produce several varieties of oil-based drying oils, differing in the presence of additional components and the percentage of the main substances.

Natural drying oil is the basic basis for “Oxoli”, but differs from it in the percentage of components and the absence of additional substances in the composition. The oil, most often linseed or hemp, accounts for 97%, and the remaining 3% is driers.

This type of drying oil is suitable for treating surfaces located only indoors, and therefore it is used infrequently, and the cost of this type is quite high due to the high percentage of oil in the composition and its original price.

Drying oil "Oxol" is much cheaper than natural, because the share of oil in its composition is only 55%. But the reduced proportion of oil and the solvent included in the composition do not make this type of drying oil worse than natural one. It is in no way inferior in properties and appearance to its natural analogue and even surpasses it in some ways.

On a surface treated with drying oil, a stable coating with a gloss effect is formed no later than 24 hours. It is distinguished by elasticity, water resistance and maximum durability compared to other types. The only disadvantage of “Oxol” is its harsh odor compared to its natural analogue due to the presence of a solvent, which is most often used white spirit.

The division of "Oxoli" into brands is due to the use of different oils that make up the base. For grade “B”, either hemp or linseed oil is used. The best drying oil is considered to be one made on the basis of linseed oil; it is this that forms a more durable coating on the surface.

The composition of the PV brand is based on other types of oils (soybean, sunflower, camelina, grape, corn).

Combined drying oil, unlike other types, contains several types of oils that undergo different processing. In particular, if rapeseed oil, which is cheaper in cost and does not dry well, is added to the composition, then it is first subjected to oxidation. This process is necessary so that the drying oil with cheaper oils used as a base approaches the properties of the original version.

The composition of the combined drying oil also includes synthetic substances and a solvent. Such drying oil is marked with the letter “K”, and the number following the letter indicates for what types of work the composition can be used. Even numbers indicate drying oils intended for treating surfaces indoors, and odd numbers indicate compositions that can be worked with outside.

Alkyd drying oil has some similarities with Oxol. Vegetable oils are present in alkyd species, but their share is insignificant. This type of drying oil is produced on the basis of alkyd resins, which are diluted with solvents, most often white spirit. In addition, the composition includes driers.

Symptoms of poisoning

Intoxication when interacting with paints can be both acute and chronic.

Signs of acute paint vapor poisoning are:

• cyanosis (blue discoloration of the skin);
• nausea, vomiting;
• confusion, deafness;
• severe general weakness;
• dizziness, intense headache;
• sneezing, dry hacking cough;
• watery eyes, nasal discharge (rhinorrhea);
• sore throat, nasopharynx;
• feeling of a foreign body and burning in the eyes;
• noise in ears.

General symptoms may be supplemented by signs of poisoning of a specific solvent used in the paint. Thus, in case of poisoning with dimethyl ketone (acetone) vapors, damage to the nervous system occurs, the clinical picture of which is similar to that of intoxication. Intoxication with butyl acetate vapor is characterized by intense burning of the nasopharynx, oral cavity, and eyes.

In case of chronic intoxication, which is more common among people who come into daily contact with paints and varnishes, symptoms of poisoning appear gradually over a long period of time:

• deterioration in general health, decreased mood;
• digestive disorders (nausea, heartburn, belching, bloating, stool disorders, lack of appetite);
• burning, itching in the eyes, conjunctival hyperemia;
• sleep disorders (insomnia, interrupted sleep, nightmares);
• persistent non-productive cough.

Technologies, secrets, recipes

In paint and varnish production, drying oil of this brand is used in the production of oil-based paints. With its help, a more liquid consistency is achieved for thickly grated compositions used during interior and exterior painting work. Grade B is characterized as “drying oils”. Brand PV - this product is of little use for work outside buildings and premises and can be made using any of their oils: sunflower, grape, corn and others. The peculiarity of this brand is the following: ingredients suitable for the food industry are not used to make this product. This brand of drying oil is characterized as “semi-drying oils”.

Features of drying oil "Oxol"

Just like high-quality natural drying oil, this composition reliably protects wood from pests. However, if you do not cover the drying oil layer with varnish or enamel, then the treated surfaces will have to be updated frequently. Drying oil can be applied to wood and plaster. These surfaces must be indoors. Its use can improve the adhesion of oil-based, dispersion and other paints and putties.

Flaxseed oil product

The best is considered to be the drying oil "Oxol", made on the basis of linseed oil. After application to a wooden surface, this composition forms a durable elastic film that does not turn black for a long time. Drying oil "Oxol" grade B, used in outdoor work, forms a dense but short-lived film. These surfaces must be covered with a layer of varnish or paint.

Sunflower oil based product

It has a lower price than linseed oil drying oil. This product can be used not only for treating indoor surfaces, but also for outdoor work. It is recommended to apply drying oil outside only in places where there is no access to moisture. For example, under a canopy or roof eaves. In this case, the surfaces on which the drying oil is applied should be covered with an additional protective layer of paint or varnish, which will prevent the wood from rotting.

Instructions for using drying oil "Oxol"

The composition should be applied only to a previously dried and dust-free surface. You can treat the surface using a roller, brush, or spray gun.

To ensure more complete protection of the wood, it is recommended to apply the composition in two layers. If the Oxol drying oil has thickened, it can be diluted with nefras, turpentine or white spirit. Product consumption is 150-200 g/m2. During work, air humidity should not exceed 80%. In this case, the film will dry within 24 hours.

It should be remembered that Oxol drying oil is a flammable material, so work should not be carried out near fire or in conditions of elevated temperatures. This property of the product is due to the presence of oils and solvents in it. The drying oil storage area must be protected from open flames; all electrical equipment located in it must have a high degree of explosion protection.

The product should be stored in tightly closed containers, protected from high humidity and heat from sunlight.

The room for work using drying oil must be well ventilated. When using a PV brand product, it is recommended to provide respiratory protection using a respirator. Be sure to cover exposed skin with protective clothing and put on rubber gloves on your hands. If the composition gets on your skin during work, it should be removed as quickly as possible with a dry cloth, and then rinse the area with water at room temperature.

To prevent drying oil from getting into your eyes, it is recommended to use safety glasses.

What to look for when purchasing

Drying oil is sold in different packages. It is best to buy the composition in a transparent container. This will allow you to understand what the color of the liquid is. The more transparent it is, the greater the chance that it is not “Oxol”, but a composite product, and it is of significantly worse quality.

Therefore, it is recommended to carefully read the composition of the drying oil, which should be indicated on the label. It must contain complete information about the brand of the product, its manufacturer, and have instructions for use. There is a general rule for choosing high-quality drying oil: the less pronounced the smell it has, the better the product

You should also pay attention to the uniformity of the composition of the liquid: it should be free of various impurities and sediments

Ways to prevent odor before starting work

If the repair process involves working with drying oil, it is better to find out in advance how to remove the smell. However, you can reduce the concentration and it will help it fade faster. To do this, you can use these tips.

• Before painting, leave the windows open and turn on the fan. The blades of the equipment must operate in such a way that the air flow is directed outward from the room.
• In rooms with high humidity, it is better to pre-dry the air using an air conditioner or heater.
• You can add a small amount of essence with mint, lemon or vanilla aroma to a jar of drying oil.

If you have to interrupt work for a short period of time, you must close the container tightly. And after completing the repair, it is better to get rid of the rollers and brushes that were used to apply the solution.

Drying oil - overview of types and classification

Drying oils

All drying oils are made from vegetable oil with the addition of a drier - a substance that accelerates the drying of the oil. During the manufacturing process of drying oil, the oil is subjected to filtration and heat treatment. Metal compounds such as cobalt, lead, manganese, iron, zirconium, lithium, strontium are used as driers. The percentage of drying agents in drying oil is insignificant. Their presence accelerates the oxidation of the oil due to the fact that the drier actively absorbs oxygen from the air, which is used for oxidation. The effect of the drying agent on the drying oil does not stop after drying, so adding too much of it is unacceptable - the coating quickly darkens and becomes brittle. The composition of the drying agent significantly affects the drying speed of drying oil; for example, polymetallic drying agents give a drying speed several times higher than monometallic ones.

Natural drying oil

Natural drying oil consists of 97% natural vegetable oil (most often linseed, less often sunflower), the remaining 3% is a drier (a substance that promotes rapid drying). During the production process, oil can undergo heat treatment with or without air purging. Drying oil obtained by heat treatment without blowing is called polymerized; with blowing, it is called oxidized or oxidized. Natural drying oil has the appearance of an opaque thick oily liquid of black-brown color with a faint odor. Natural drying oil is used for diluting thickly rubbed paints and for impregnating wooden surfaces indoors. Experts do not recommend using drying oil for outdoor work - it is expensive and impractical.

Drying oil oxol

Drying oil oxol is made from natural vegetable oils, solvent and drier. The oil content in the oxol is 55%, white spirit is used as a solvent, it accounts for 40%, the remaining 5% is a drier. Due to the presence of drying oil in the solvent, oxol has a sharp, unpleasant odor that persists for some time even after the coating has dried. Oxol is significantly cheaper than natural drying oil and differs only slightly from it in appearance and properties.

Depending on the components used, drying oil Oxol grades B and PV are produced. Drying oil grade B is produced using hemp or linseed oil. It is used in the paint and varnish industry in the production of oil-based paints, as well as for diluting various thick-based paints that are needed in interior and exterior painting work.

Drying oils of the PV brand are based on sunflower, safflower, grape, corn or other oils, and it is also possible to partially replace these oils with petroleum-polymer resins. To produce this brand of drying oil, oils that can be used in the food industry are not used.

Combined drying oils

Combined drying oils differ from oxol only in the ratio of the number of ingredients: they contain about 30% solvent, which is also used as white spirit. About 700 kg of oil is consumed per ton of drying oil.

Alkyd drying oils

Alkyd drying oils are made from alkyd resins diluted with solvents and modified with oils. Just like in oil drying oils, a drier is added to alkyd ones. Based on the type of resin, alkyd drying oils are divided into glyphthalic, pentaphthalic and xyphthalic. Alkyd drying oils are available in the form of solutions in white spirit. Alkyd drying oils are more economical than oil ones - it takes about 300 kg of vegetable oil to prepare a ton of drying oil.

Products of this type are produced in the form of solutions, which are more economical than natural ones, since the production of a ton of such drying oil requires about 300 kg of vegetable oil.

How to get rid of an unpleasant smell in an apartment

It is believed that every home has its own unique smell, which largely favors the creation of a special atmosphere in the home. Of course, any housewife would like to have aromas in her home that give a feeling of comfort and peace, but due to certain circumstances, the question of how to get rid of an unpleasant smell in an apartment can become especially relevant for the homemaker. Let's try to study the most common causes of unpleasant odor in the house and give the most effective methods to combat it.

The smell of smoke

You can try to defeat the corrosive aromas of smoke in a trivial way, just by organizing large-scale ventilation in the apartment while simultaneously carrying out at least light wet cleaning. It is not necessary to rush headlong to “generalize” the home if it does not require it, but in order to solve the issue of how to get rid of the smell of smoke in the apartment, you will need a simple wet cleaning, which involves refreshing the floors in the home, wiping the shelves and furniture.

At the end of cleaning, it is enough to add the final touch to the atmosphere by spraying a little air freshener or placing a lit aroma lamp on the window, and after a couple of hours you can safely forget about the trouble.

The smell of fried fish

Cooking this simple but quite tasty dish is almost always accompanied by the formation of not very pleasant odors. It is for this reason that experienced housewives always try to cook fried fish with the hood on or the window slightly open. To further avoid the problem of how to get rid of the smell of fried fish in an apartment, you can take these simple tips into account, and also, if the aroma of fried food is very intense, use the above recommendations.

To completely eliminate the smell of fried food, it is advisable not to be lazy and thoroughly wash the stove, countertop and other surfaces adjacent to the stove on which oil particles may have settled after frying. At the end of all procedures, it is enough to ventilate the kitchen thoroughly and spray a little air freshener into the air.

The smell of urine in the house

This specific amber often settles in houses where children live and where bedridden patients stay. To prevent the question of how to get rid of the smell of human urine in an apartment from arising, timely and regular wet cleaning of the house followed by ventilation will be required. When doing this, make sure that there are no children or bedridden sick people in the ventilated room.

The use of special detergents that do not cause allergies in either children or adults destroys the smell of urine and prevents its subsequent appearance. As auxiliary means, it is recommended to use dry flavors, containers with dry ground coffee and activated carbon, which perfectly absorbs extraneous odors.

The smell of animal urine in the house

The presence of animals in the house can often be determined by a specific smell, in particular when a cat or ferret lives in the apartment. During the period of love games, these animals often mark the territory in which they live. To solve the problem related to the question of how to get rid of the smell of a ferret in an apartment, or how to eliminate the smell of cat urine, you will again have to resort to wet cleaning.

During the cleaning process, traces of animal marks are treated with vinegar, potassium permanganate, hydrogen peroxide, or special means designed to eliminate extraneous odors. To avoid having to deal with this problem again in the future, it is advisable to train your pet to use the litter box in a timely manner. In some cases, owners even resort to such a method as sterilization and castration of pets.

The smell of drying oil, solvents and paint

After renovation work, owners of a freshly renovated home inevitably face the question of how to get rid of the smell of drying oil in the apartment and, along with it, eliminate other aromas of recently completed renovations?

Fortunately, all these odors disappear fairly quickly, but the apartment owners will have to endure them for some time while they remain in the air. To speed up the odor elimination process, the home must be ventilated as often as possible. If the situation caught the owners in the summer, then at this time the windows do not need to be closed at all for the whole day.

Another way to displace the smell of drying oil is to deliberately smoke the apartment. The smell of smoke disappears much faster, and it can also displace these aromas. To carry out this procedure, simply place a couple of sheets of paper in a metal bucket, then set them on fire and, if necessary, extinguish them with water. The smoke in the room should remain for at least half an hour, after which the room can be ventilated. Please note that using smoke you can only displace the smell of drying oil, but experts strongly do not recommend using this method to combat, for example, varnish odors.

How to do it yourself?

In the absence of factory products, quite high-quality drying oil is often made at home from sunflower oil. To obtain a product based on flaxseed oil, you will need to heat it slowly, until the water evaporates, but without warming it above 160 degrees. The cooking time is 4 hours; it is not advisable to cook a large amount of oil at the same time. Filling the vessel halfway provides increased fire protection and significant productivity.

When foam appears, you can introduce the drier in small portions - only 0.03 - 0.04 kg per 1 liter of oil. The subsequent cooking time at 200 degrees reaches 180 minutes. The readiness of the solution is assessed by the complete transparency of a drop of the mixture placed on a clean thin glass. The drying oil should be cooled slowly at room temperature. Drying agent is also sometimes made with your own hands: 20 parts of rosin are combined with 1 part of manganese peroxide, and the rosin is first heated to 150 degrees.

To learn how to use drying oil correctly, watch the following video.

First aid for paint vapor poisoning

At the first symptoms of acute paint vapor poisoning, you must:

• evacuate the victim from the place of exposure to toxins;
• ensure a flow of fresh air (open windows, doors, unbutton tight clothes);
• give plenty of alkaline drinks (milk, mineral water);
• If paint or solvent gets on your skin, rinse immediately with plenty of water.

In case of chronic poisoning, first aid measures are ineffective; qualified medical assistance is required.

Additional Information

Drying oil can be used for priming not only wooden walls, but also plastered ones. It is also often used as an anti-corrosion coating for metals.

Natural drying oil. It consists of 95% vegetable oil, and only 5% of drier, a special additive that accelerates the drying of the treated surface.

It is unprofitable to use it for treating external surfaces due to the high financial costs, while this species does not provide 100% protection against fungus and insects.

Natural drying oil is used to dilute oil paints and prime wooden surfaces before painting or varnishing.

Oxol. It consists of 55% natural oil component, 40% solvent, white spirit, and 5% drier. The scope and properties of this type of drying oil are the same as natural ones, only it dries faster and costs less.

It also does not provide 100% protection. Learn more about why Oxol drying oil is needed and what it consists of in the video:

Composite drying oil is made entirely from artificial chemical components, in particular petroleum-polymer resins, and has a pungent odor.

Drying oils based on alkyd resins are considered the best. They are not as greasy and expensive as natural drying oils, and not as toxic as composite ones. But, nevertheless, it is better to use them for finishing outdoor country buildings (porch, swing, gazebo, summer kitchen) and for the interior rooms of country houses and apartments.

Drying oil is a good alternative to modern expensive means for impregnating and priming wooden surfaces.

But remember that some types can be toxic and are not suitable for use in residential areas.

If you need guaranteed protection from external factors, drying oil alone is not enough.

• What is water based wood impregnation used for...
• Protecting wood from rotting and burning: means and…

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Criterias of choice

For exterior work, you can use synthetic drying oil, for interior use only natural
. First you need to decide on the type of drying oil used : for interior work, household items, products with increased environmental requirements, a natural product is suitable, and for facade primers and paints, you can also use options containing solvent .

The compositions of Russian manufacturers must be marked with GOST, and the list of components must not contradict it. If ingredients that are not typical for the desired class of product are indicated, you should not purchase drying oil.

The composition should have a color characteristic of the oil used and a uniform consistency. It should be opaque, free of sediment and any foreign inclusions. Natural products have a pleasant oily smell, but oxol smells like a solvent.