Is your gas boiler going out and blowing out? 8 reasons why this is happening

Backdraft in the combustion chamber, which occurs during gusts of wind, is a fairly common problem. A gas boiler constantly goes out during strong gusts of wind, which impairs its efficiency; due to frequent clocking, it reduces its service life, and models with manual ignition have to be constantly ignited even in the middle of the night.

The problem can arise both in floor-mounted atmospheric boilers with an open combustion chamber and a vertical chimney, and in boilers with a closed combustion chamber and a coaxial chimney. However, correcting the situation in more than 90% of cases is not difficult.

General characteristics of the problem

A modern gas boiler is a very complex device. When a gas boiler blows out, various abnormalities in operation can be observed, ranging from startup failure to unexpected stoppage of the burner. For example, the unit may start, and then extinguish the flame a minute later.

Read also: Rear view camera fogged up -

In addition to wind, there may be several reasons:

• malfunctions or insufficient pressure in the supply system, poor quality gas;
• The smoke removal system does not work well;
• electrical network leads to diagnostic errors.

Poor operation of the supply system, as well as low-quality gas, lead to failures of the ignition control system; in some boiler models, two factors - wind and poor fuel - work together.

Naturally, the most common reason why a gas boiler blows out is reverse draft, that is, the action of the wind. This factor manifests itself differently for atmospheric and turbocharged boilers. Therefore, if the boiler starts to blow out, you need to act based on its operating principles.

Troubleshooting

It is very important to detect malfunctions in the operation of a gas boiler in time and eliminate them in time to avoid accidents. The main sign of a gas boiler malfunction is very weak combustion of the burner or its complete absence

There can be many reasons for this manifestation.

Malfunction of the internal mechanism of the gas boiler

Another sign is that the burner is difficult or impossible to light. This manifestation can occur due to filter clogging, broken electronic contacts, or violation of the electrode gap. If the filter can be cleaned yourself, then if other problems arise, a professional approach is required.

Other signs of a gas boiler breakdown include noise and spontaneous shutdown of the device, nozzle whistling, and others.

Ways to combat backdraft

If a gas boiler goes out in strong winds, then enlarging the chimney pipe is the easiest way to combat backdraft. But this solution has its drawbacks.

The second option for solving the problem of what to do if the boiler blows out is to install a deflector on the upper edge of the chimney pipe. This element helps to increase draft in the chimney channel.

Another solution to the problem of what to do when the wind blows out a gas boiler is to install a chimney with a minimum number of bends and turns. In this case, the turbulence of the air flow with combustion products as it passes through the pipe is reduced. Many people install a flueless gas water heater, which does not have these problems.

However, in all cases the problem cannot be solved completely. The effect of lengthening the chimney pipe does not live up to expectations, and a simple deflector partially solves the situation when the boiler goes out in the wind. Therefore, it is necessary to look for a more effective method that will not allow strong winds to damage heating and heating equipment.

Installation of the "fungus"

Sometimes, in order to solve the problem, such a simple measure as installing a “fungus” on the end of the pipe is enough. This simple device reduces the likelihood of backdraft. There are several types of fungi:

• cone-shaped;
• in the shape of a ring, larger in diameter than the chimney;
• combined, consisting of a ring and a cone.

Fungus functions:

• dispersion of directed air flow;
• creation of vortices, due to which reverse thrust does not develop.

Advice! To choose the optimal shape of the “fungus”, you should consult with a specialist, since in some cases installing a “fungus” of the wrong shape leads to the formation of ice in the chimney.

Increasing the pipe height

Another solution to the problem could be to increase the height of the chimney to increase the draft force. Sometimes this has to be done after several years of normal operation of the boiler due to an obstacle that has appeared. For example, if a taller building or other high-rise object is built next to the house.

"Break traction"

If it is impossible to increase the height of the chimney, it is worth trying to organize a so-called “draft break”. To do this, a special device is inserted into the pipe, which prevents the formation of backdraft.

The simplest version of the device has the shape of a truncated cone; it is installed with the wide end towards the boiler. The point of installing such a device is that the air flow entering the pipe loses its strength and forms turbulence, since it cannot freely pass through the narrow part of the cone.

Advice! It is prohibited to install any additional devices in the chimney without the permission of specialists. Please note that incorrectly selected devices for “draft breaking” can lead to a deterioration in natural draft and the entry of carbon monoxide into the premises of the house.

Reduce the diameter of the chimney

Many people believe that the larger the diameter of the chimney, the better the natural draft. But this is a wrong opinion; moreover, too large a chimney diameter can lead to the burner being blown out by the wind. Why is this happening? The fact is that to create enough thrust, three conditions must be met:

• supply of sufficient air to the firebox to ensure combustion processes;
• achieving a high temperature in the current for the most complete combustion of flue gas;
• heating the inner walls of the chimney pipe.

In order to fulfill the last condition, the inside of the chimney must be assembled from materials with low thermal conductivity. It is clear that the larger the internal diameter of the chimney, the longer it will take to heat them up.

That is, the cause of poor boiler performance can be not only the entry of air flows into the pipe and the creation of reverse draft, but also the insufficient force of forward draft due to the fact that the internal walls of the chimney pipe do not have time to warm up.

To solve this problem, you do not need to disassemble the old chimney; just insert a pipe of a smaller diameter into it. In this case, heating of the inner walls will occur much faster, this will increase the force of direct thrust.

Insufficient supply ventilation or absence of a ventilation duct

When one cubic meter of gas is burned, ten cubic meters of air are burned. Accordingly, in most cases, in domestic domestic boilers, if it is not a turbine type of boiler with a coxial tube, air from the room is used.

And, accordingly, if you have insufficient supply ventilation: the door is not cut, or holes are not made, and your room is constantly closed, then the air supply is not enough to keep the boiler burning.

Either you may not have a ventilation duct, or you may simply have one clogged. Again, you need to either clean the ventilation duct or ensure air flow from below. This is necessary in order to burn the required amount of air in the room and your gas boiler does not go out. If you do not have supply ventilation, or there is no draft in the ventilation duct, then the boiler will begin to burn air from the room. When all the air in the room is burned, it will begin to take in air from the street through the chimney. Thus, reverse thrust is formed. A certain draft forms and this draft can blow out your boiler.

Wind vanes and deflectors

Another simple way to prevent wind from entering the pipe is to install a deflector or similar devices.

This device ensures the dispersion of air flow directly directed into the pipe. A simple cone installed at the end of the pipe can save the situation.

You can use a special ring that is larger in diameter than the pipe. With its help, the air flow breaks up and loses the force of back pressure.

The variety of such elements is great, but it is better to consult with a professional who can recommend a deflector in a particular case. Independent selection of a device can ultimately lead to the appearance of ice in the chimney or block the gas exhaust system.

Scale deposits inside the heat exchanger

The heat exchanger can be clogged not only with combustion products, but also with scale and limescale that forms with each portion of water entering the boiler. Scale is formed as a result of heating hard water.

Inside the heat exchanger, solid deposits of salts turn into a kind of insulator, reducing heat transfer from heating. The larger the scale layer in the heat exchanger, the worse the heat transfer from fire to water will be, because heat will not be able to penetrate a thick layer of solid deposits. This significantly reduces the energy efficiency of the entire system and the boiler stops reaching the desired temperature.

To remove scale, the heat exchanger must be removed and descaled using a special acid. As a preventative measure, it is recommended to maintain the operating temperature in the boiler.

Traditional methods for descaling include the use of ordinary table vinegar (3-10% acetic acid solution). Table vinegar is poured in equal parts with water, the solution is left to interact with the scale overnight. Cationation and reverse osmosis methods are also used.

How to deal with backdraft: main mistakes and misconceptions

Of course, extending the chimney is the simplest and most affordable option.

It is important to take into account that the method cannot guarantee a positive outcome. In this case, you can mount a deflector on the top

If this method is not effective, then the third option should be used. The pipe design needs to be reconsidered. The fewer angles and sharp turns there are, the higher the conductivity of heated air flows as they move through the pipes. This is a rather labor-intensive but effective technique.

Even significant extension and installation of the deflector does not fundamentally change the system. Strong and gusty air currents may cause the equipment to stop operating again.

Thermostat is not installed where it should be

For proper operation of the boiler room, it is very important to adhere to the diagram for connecting the thermostat to the gas boiler. Using a thermostat provides a short delay after reaching the set temperature, which can significantly reduce the number of boiler starts and stops, save resources and reduce equipment wear

To connect the thermostat to a boiler with a Dry Contact circuit, two conductors are connected, and the cable length should be no more than 50 meters. In this case, the thermostat should not be installed next to the boiler. It is also unacceptable to install a thermostat in an unheated room.

Reducing the chimney diameter

Not in all cases, a large pipe diameter is good for the system. To ensure proper traction, the following conditions must be met:

• the required amount of oxygen in the place where combustion occurs;
• increasing the temperature to a level of 600 degrees, necessary for complete combustion of the gas mixture;
• increase in temperature on the walls of the chimney.

The last point is the most important and is present in systems made from a material with a low level of thermal conductivity, such as brick.

In the case of a large diameter chimney pipe, whatever the material used to construct the chimney, it is necessary to heat large volumes of air so that the walls begin to heat up.

In addition, the wide pipe allows the hot air to mix with the cold air flow coming from outside. This slows down the heating process of the walls and the desired level of thrust is not achieved.

The easiest way to make the diameter of the chimney opening smaller is to install a pipe of the required diameter inside the existing one. Due to this, heat loss will decrease and the rate of heating of the walls will increase. As a result, when the device is ignited, the draft begins to rise very quickly.

It is also worth checking the ventilation system, which may cause a lack of combustion oxygen consumed by the boiler from the boiler room. A slot at the bottom of the door will help improve ventilation.

Pouring technology

Forming a concrete floor on the ground is a rather complex procedure that requires compliance with the following sequence of actions:
First of all, a rough foundation is prepared. To do this, the top layer of soil is removed, and in its place is placed dense soil, which was obtained after digging a hole for the foundation. Try to completely remove soil containing organic matter, as it will rot and sag over time. After leveling, this layer must be compacted with a vibrating plate.

Please note that the bottom of the wire should not come into contact with the insulation. Therefore, the entire mesh is raised above the surface using special plastic bosses

If it is planned to form a warm floor inside the room, then all its elements must be placed directly on the fittings.

When everything is ready, fill the floor from scratch

It is important here to do everything at once in order to form a monolithic structure. Alignment of the screed occurs according to previously installed beacons or relative to marks on the walls

Before pouring, be sure to secure damper tape along all walls. It can be purchased at any hardware store or made from small pieces of polystyrene foam.

Finishing the floor occurs only after the concrete has completely dried. This period can last from 1 to 2 months depending on the thickness of the screed.

Solutions if the boiler goes out in the wind

Changes in gas pressure do not occur very often. Moreover, the differences are so insignificant that they are unlikely to be the reason. Don't immediately look for a hardware problem. The design of the latest models of gas boilers is quite simple, but at the same time reliable.

The most commonly found deficiencies are:

• Formation of an ice clod that blocks the ventilation channel. It prevents the exchange of air particles that enables combustion. The appearance of ice is a natural phenomenon, because in addition to spent fuel, condensate penetrates into the pipes. It just freezes on the walls.
• Backdraft, which occurs due to strong and gusty winds, as well as during a sudden change in movement. It moves along the entire length of the structure and eventually reaches the boiler. The flame in it goes out.

Ice is an artificial obstacle, and its formation means that the structure was assembled incorrectly. To correct errors, you must immediately stop using the oven and contact a specialist. They will clean the pipe, install a condensate drain (umbrella, canopy) or a walk-through collector.

Backdraft is a great danger due to the extinguishing of the burner flame. The system in the latest generation boiler equipment is more modern. The automatic system quickly operates and stops supplying gas to the firebox. However, combustion products first enter the heating installation, thereby polluting the chamber. During subsequent switching on, they will penetrate inside. The reason for this phenomenon is most often the insufficient length of the chimney. To correct the situation you need:

• Structural changes.
• Installation of the stabilizer (thrust regulator).
• Installation of the deflector.
• Connection of (rotary) gate.

general information

If the gas installation stops functioning normally, constantly goes out and does not provide the required heat, it is possible that air currents have appeared in the combustion chamber, interfering with combustion.

In most cases, this phenomenon is accompanied by a corresponding alarm sign on the installation display, but this is not yet a reason to panic.

It is important for the boiler owner to carry out diagnostics in time, as well as determine the cause of the breakdown. Otherwise, the problem will begin to progress and the equipment will no longer produce the specified thermal potential.

It is also possible that the temperature inside the building will decrease or the heating system will defrost, which will entail more serious consequences.

List of the main reasons for the boiler to blow out:

1. Formation of an ice edge at important nodes.
2. Loss of tightness of connections.
3. Low gas pressure.

In this video we will look at how to eliminate the causes of boiler blowing:

In addition, there may be other reasons:

1. Unstable operation of the electrical network.
2. Malfunctions in the smoke shaft.
3. Damage to automation.

Gradual heating of the boiler

If a gas heating system is used in country houses and has been inoperative for a long time, even weak gusts of wind can cause the flame to die out.

The problem is solved by gradually heating the boiler, namely, first after ignition, set the minimum temperature, after 5-10 minutes add gas, and after 20-30 minutes warm up the chimney at high settings. This will allow the chimney to fully warm up, which will make it easier for the exhaust gas to escape up the chimney.

The wick burns weakly

Gas boiler wick

The wick burns weakly for two reasons: either it is clogged and needs to be cleaned, or you have weak inlet pressure. If you have a home controller, be sure to check its settings. You may need to increase the inlet pressure, as it constantly fluctuates due to the fact that gas consumption is different in different periods.

Accordingly, during the heating season, when gas boilers are operating, gas consumption is higher and the inlet pressure also drops. And the regulator, as far as you know, maintains a certain differential between the inlet pressure and the outlet pressure. Accordingly, this differential also drops, because of this your wick may burn weaker. Check the regulator setting and also clean the wick.

Turbocharged boilers

When a turbocharged boiler is operating, combustion products are removed and air is forced into the furnace. Therefore, problems with traction occur less frequently, although they are not excluded.

Backdraft

When installing the boiler, it is very important to remove the coaxial chimney pipe from the leeward side of the building. This will prevent the formation of reverse draft. However, the wind direction may change, so it is advisable to take protective measures. After consulting with specialists, you can take the following measures:

• install a “fungus” on the end of the chimney;
• install a device to break the draft; this device is mounted in the internal channel of the coaxial chimney.

Naledi formation

Freezing of condensate in the pipe can become a serious problem. Ice formation often occurs during strong winds. To solve this problem, the chimney should be well insulated. In this case, ice will form on the outside of the chimney, and not on the inside. And external ice cannot affect the operation of the boiler, in addition, it will be easier to remove.

If the owners notice that their gas boiler blows out in a strong wind, then it is necessary to take protective measures. But before you do anything, you need to contact a specialist to identify the cause of the problem. And only then can you find the optimal way out of the situation.

The gas boiler is blown out by the wind, what should I do?

Often the reason why a gas heating boiler stops working is due to wind blowing. Its shutdown in winter is a very unpleasant surprise for the owners. This can lead not only to a sharp decrease in the temperature inside the house, but also to damage to the entire heating system. Let's deal with the problem.

If your gas boiler suddenly turns off, do not panic and first rule out such a possible cause as a sharp decrease in gas pressure in the pipeline. To do this, you can simply turn on the gas stove and look at the flame, its size, and check how quickly the water boils. You will immediately notice low gas pressure on the hob. In this case, your boiler is definitely not to blame; call the gas workers and find out the causes of the problem. Most likely, not only you have it, but also all your neighbors.

In addition, check and eliminate the possibility of gas leaks using a soap solution, which is applied with a sponge or spray bottle to the joints of pipes and parts. There is no smell or bubbles, which means there is no leakage.

However, often the reason for the gas boiler turning off is obvious - there is a hurricane wind outside, which simply whistles in the pipes. Strong gusts of wind entering the chimney cause reverse draft, the valve is activated, and the flame in the boiler automatically goes out.

You should think about preventing the risk of the boiler blowing out even at the stage of installing the chimney. It is highly advisable to take into account the wind rose in your region. A chimney that is incorrectly located relative to the wind pressure zone significantly increases the risk of the boiler burner blowing out. Incorrect chimney pipe configuration can also cause this problem.

A deflector installed on the head of the chimney pipe copes well with the problem of the boiler blowing out. This is a fairly simple design that increases draft in the chimney, protects it from precipitation and blowing. Be sure to think about installing a deflector or immediately purchase a design with such a device.

Important! Actions with gas equipment require coordination with the relevant service. Therefore, before installing a deflector or weather vane, consult with gas specialists. The cause of a gas boiler blowing out can also be the burning of a metal chimney pipe

As a result of burning, a hole is formed into which air flows - problems with the chimney appear. Only replacing the pipe will help cope with the situation. In the case of coaxial chimneys, there is no risk of burnout, because the hot gas from the boiler flows through the internal pipe, cooled by the oncoming cold air flow

The cause of a gas boiler blowing out can also be a burnout of the metal chimney pipe. As a result of burning, a hole is formed into which air flows - problems with the chimney appear. Only replacing the pipe will help cope with the situation. In the case of coaxial chimneys, there is no risk of burnout, because the hot gas from the boiler flows through the internal pipe, cooled by the oncoming cold air flow.

Two more possible reasons for a gas boiler blowing out:

Ice formation on the chimney. This often happens with coaxial structures in frosts of -10..-15 °C. Hot steam comes out of the chimney, gradually cools, turns into water droplets, condensation, which freezes, forming icicles and a thick layer of ice. This leads to a disruption in draft, the boiler automation is triggered, and it stops working. If such a problem arises, do not rush to knock off the ice build-up - you can damage the chimney itself. It is best to remove the head and upper part of the pipe and bring it into a warm room so that the ice melts naturally. Before removing and cleaning the pipe, the gas supply must be turned off! Additional insulation of the chimney helps to avoid the appearance of ice;

Poor ventilation in the boiler room can lead to problems with the operation of the atmospheric boiler. It will help to install forced ventilation in the room or holes with a fine mesh at the bottom of the boiler room door.

Manipulations with the pipe help to cope with the boiler blowing out - the diameter of its outlet can be reduced or increased in length. A chimney opening that is too large can be reduced by installing an additional inner pipe. Remember that the vertical chimney must be 50 cm higher than the roof ridge.

In this case, too long a chimney can cause excessive, strong draft, which will literally tear the flame away from the boiler burner.

We strongly advise you to call specialists if problems arise in the operation of your gas boiler! Only they will be able to accurately determine the reason for the device shutdown and eliminate it.

Influence of equipment parameters on the possibility of flame extinction

Among the most common causes of failures are:

• An incorrectly calculated ventilation system is a distance of less than 50 cm above a flat roof, 500 mm above a ridge (or parapet), etc. The errors are detailed in the image below.
• Violation of construction and technical requirements during installation - low-quality materials, non-compliance with SNiP.

To make adjustments, it is recommended to ask a professional if you have any questions.

There are often times when the reverse action valve comes into operation. This is caused by gusty winds that exert too much pressure from the street. Sensitive automation reacts quickly and the valve closes. Next, the fuel supply to the boiler is stopped and its operation stops completely. Regular repetitions force us to think through possible options for reconstruction. First, it is recommended to check whether the correct chimney height is selected. The difference between the highest point of the house and the canal should be at least 0.5 m. The diameter is calculated based on the parameters of the installed unit.

You can also improve draft by regularly cleaning the ventilation. This is explained by the need for a constant flow of air into the installation. If a small amount of oxygen enters it, then the intensity of gas combustion becomes weaker. As a result, the flame may go out completely.

Problems with closed-type turbocharged equipment

Sometimes when installing a new chimneyless apparatus, the flame periodically goes out. In this case, you need to check the components and parts. The problem is detected by the following factors:

ignition of the igniter is accompanied by periodic attenuation - this indicates a failure of the thermocouple, which affects the operation of the valve. It is produced in the form of a copper tube with a bimetallic piece at the end. When different metals come into contact, the voltage increases to 20-45 W. This problem keeps the gas valve open. The thermocouple must be replaced with a new one; it cannot be repaired;

• breakdown or clogging of the traction sensor - the flat part is combined with the fuel valve. When the leading contacts are closed and the burner is ignited, a fire occurs - this indicates the need to replace the sensor. Oxidized areas of contacts can be cleaned with sandpaper with fine abrasives;
• if the circulation pump malfunctions, it is necessary to carry out a complete diagnosis of the unit and replace it;
• A yellow flame is due to the fact that the jet is clogged. You can clean it if you have experience working with gas appliances.

Most of the reasons can be eliminated with your own hands, however, this will require some knowledge and a lot of time.

Repair of wall-mounted and turbocharged units

Wall-mounted gas boilers with open and closed combustion chambers are more complex devices equipped with modern electronics and safety elements. But here, too, some problems can be solved on your own. All the manipulations described above with checking traction, fuel supply and sensors are just as relevant for wall-mounted atmospheric heat generators.

To find faults in a wall-mounted electric gas boiler, you need to arm yourself with the product’s operating instructions and a Phillips screwdriver; you are unlikely to need other tools. The technical data sheet contains the fault codes displayed on the heater display, and a screwdriver is needed to remove the front panel.

There are 3 non-working states of the heat generator:

1. The boiler is completely turned off, not a single indicator lights up.
2. The unit is turned on, the display and power indicator are on, but automatic ignition does not occur.
3. There are attempts to start the main burner, but after ignition it immediately goes out.

The fuse box is located on the electronic board of the boiler.
Having made sure that voltage is supplied to the heater, we can begin to repair condition No. 1. To do this, unscrew the front panel of the gas boiler with a screwdriver or an asterisk wrench and remove it or fold down the front cover (depending on the model). Then the algorithm is as follows:

1. Locate the fuse box and check each one with a multimeter or visually. Surely there will be one that is burned out.
2. As a rule, the spare fuse is glued to the inside of the front panel. Put it in place of the burnt one or buy a new one (exactly the same value!).
3. Try starting the heating unit. If it works, then the repair is complete, put the cover back in place.
4. Did the device turn on and “die” again? All that remains is to call a technician, since the problem is more serious.

In the other two non-working states, the display shows an error code, by which you can determine the problem by looking at the product data sheet. The expert recommends the following: when the documentation says “contact service” next to the error code, then that’s what you need to do; you won’t be able to handle the breakdown yourself. You can resolve the following errors yourself:

1. The sump filter that filters the coolant from the heating system is clogged. Disconnect the heat generator from the house electrical network, turn off the taps and clean the element mesh.
2. The built-in circulation pump does not work. The reasons are jammed rotor or air lock. In both cases, unscrew the large screw (located in the center of the pump) and release the air or turn the rotor with a screwdriver. Be careful, some water will flow out of the hole.
3. When the boiler pressure gauge shows low pressure and there are no leaks in the heating system, you need to pump air into the expansion tank mounted inside the heating unit. The pressure on the air side of the membrane should be 0.2 bar less than in the system. Read more about pumping up the tank here.
4. If a leak is detected at low pressure, it must be repaired and then added to the water system.

We make sure that the burner goes out due to the wind

In order not to waste efforts in vain, which sometimes happens in practice, it is worthwhile to accurately determine the reasons for the burner extinguishing, since this could be an automatic error, low gas pressure, or difficulties with the removal of combustion products. Characteristic signs of wind blowing are:

• visual changes in the shape and direction of the flame caused by the wind;
• characteristic sound of a vortex in the combustion chamber;
• the burner does not turn off without reason in calm weather, be sure to check this item!

A common cause of fading is low gas pressure in the line or incorrect flame height. At low gas pressure, the flame decreases and drops critically low to the burner. To prevent it from burning out, the automation turns off the burner and the boiler goes out. The normal flame height is considered to be 2-4 cm. If the burner flame height is less, it is necessary to adjust it, but we do not recommend doing this yourself; for this it is better to call the gas service.

Causes of turbocharged equipment failures

The device, which is equipped with a turbine inside, is considered the most stable during operation. The following systems are built into these boilers:

• pressure regulation;
• forced removal of spent fuel to the outside.

Even despite their main advantage - uninterrupted operation, they can go astray from the standard mode. A built-in draft sensor will signal a failure in the heating system. Interruptions indicate that the installation was performed incorrectly. Once again, make sure that the correct equipment is selected for your home.

The instructions included with the sale describe in detail the criteria for installation. First, it is recommended to ensure regular ventilation of the room. If the assembly location is chosen incorrectly or the wind direction often changes in the area of ​​the house, then the failure can be easily corrected with your own hands. Determining the root cause, as well as ways to solve the problem, are considered on the same principle as in the case of atmospheric devices.

In fact, there are many problems associated with heating in private homes. Even modern equipment can sometimes let owners down. However, this is not a reason to refuse such a convenient, modern and, at the same time, profitable heating system. Additionally, it is recommended to study the video why a gas floor-standing boiler blows out in the wind.

How to make water heated floors with your own hands?

Today, the most common option for warm water floors is concrete water flooring. Since in this design the pipes are completely covered with a screed, there is no need to install any additional heat separators. You can learn how to make a heated floor on the ground.

Installation of concrete water floors takes place in several stages:

1. The entire room must be divided into equal sections, their area should not exceed 40 square meters.
2. The rough surface of the floor must be covered with insulation materials.
3. Next, you should lay the reinforcing mesh and install the pipe contours.
4. The heating system needs to be tested.
5. Pour the concrete screed.
6. After all the above steps, you can proceed to finishing work.

Marking the room is necessary in order to avoid cracks in the concrete screed due to temperature changes. The ratio of plots should be 1:2.

Concrete floors should be cleaned and then insulated with insulating material.

This is done to ensure that there is no heat loss in the room. A variety of materials used for these purposes in construction can be used as a thermal insulation layer. A layer of polyethylene must be laid on top of the thermal insulation material.

The reinforcing mesh should be laid in cells, the size of which should be 150 by 150. The cross-section of the mesh rods should vary between 4-6 mm. Sometimes a second layer of reinforcing mesh is laid on top of the installed pipes. Pipes should be placed on top of the mesh. This is done taking into account design features. Typically the distance between pipes is from 70 to 300 mm. Plastic clamps help secure pipes and reinforcement mesh. Sometimes special wire is used for these purposes. The pipes should not be rigidly fixed to the fittings, so that later when the temperature changes, deformation of the screed does not occur. We recommend reading the article “Electric floor - comfort and warmth of your beloved home.”

There are many ways to lay pipes, for example:

• spiral,
• double snake,
• snake

However, it is worth considering that when installing pipes in internal walls, you need to take as small a step as possible. At one end the pipe must always be attached to the supply manifold, and at the other - according to the design diagram.

When the pipes are laid, you should proceed to crimping. This procedure is carried out under working pressure. Pressure testing is necessary to avoid mechanical damage. After this operation, you can proceed to pouring the screed. Before this, the system should stand for a couple of days with a pressure of 3-4b. An article about the “warm baseboard” heating system will also be interesting.

At the end you can carry out finishing work. The final layer of the floor covering must be selected taking into account its temperature resistance. We recommend reading the article about laying solid boards on different types of flooring.

Tags

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We make sure that the burner goes out due to the wind

In order not to waste efforts in vain, which sometimes happens in practice, it is worthwhile to accurately determine the reasons for the burner extinguishing, since this could be an automatic error, low gas pressure, or difficulties with the removal of combustion products. Characteristic signs of wind blowing are:

• visual changes in the shape and direction of the flame caused by the wind;
• characteristic sound of a vortex in the combustion chamber;
• the burner does not turn off without reason in calm weather, this item must be checked.

A common cause of fading is low gas pressure in the line or incorrect flame height. At low gas pressure, the flame decreases and drops critically low to the burner. To prevent it from burning out, the automation turns off the burner and the boiler goes out. The normal flame height is considered to be 2-4 cm. If the burner flame height is less, it is necessary to adjust it, but we do not recommend doing this yourself; for this it is better to call the gas service.

Boiler attenuation due to reasons within the system and their elimination

The most common reason for a boiler to go out is a lack of oxygen to the burner. This malfunction is inherent in economy class models, which are purchased more often than others. Expensive boilers have a special exhaust device that multiplies the air flow, maintaining combustion in all weather and internal conditions.

Lack of oxygen is a common cause of soot and gas burner extinguishing. The fire goes out because the missing air flows are captured from all the holes, the flame moves, the temperature of the thermocouple drops and the protection turns off the burner as if the temperature had reached the maximum value. Other reasons for the boiler burner to go out:

1. In gas boilers with a turbocharger, a built-in electric fan helps pump air. If it does not work correctly, the burner may also go out. It's easy to diagnose a fan - when it's off, it continues to make noise.
2. A non-functioning draft sensor is another reason for the boiler to fade. It should turn on if the temperature in the smoke catcher rises from hot steam, which for some reason did not enter the chimney.
3. The burner does not ignite or burns poorly - the nozzles are clogged. Clean them with a brush or wire of the appropriate diameter.
4. If air enters the boiler gas pipeline, the boiler operation is blocked and an error appears on the display. The reason why a gas boiler goes out can be easily eliminated - you need to start the boiler again, first unlocking it according to the instructions.
5. During operation of the boiler, the gap in the igniter may be damaged or contact with the wire may be broken, or the air filter on the air line may become clogged. It is almost impossible to restore the gap with your own hands - you need the help of a gas specialist. But you can clean the filter and check the reliability of the connection of the current-carrying conductor yourself.
6. The gas burner may not go out immediately, but after several minutes. The reason most often lies in contamination of the ionization electrode. Also, the correct gap in the electrode could be broken, or the connecting wire could fall off due to constant heating.
7. The flame breaks away from the burner and goes out. Usually, the injector begins to make noise and whistle. The malfunction is eliminated by adjusting the gas pressure on the ignition electrode. The flame can break off if the draft is very strong - this phenomenon occurs with strong supply and exhaust ventilation.
8. If the boiler is installed in a private house, then the flame may die out if the chimney pipe is installed very high.
9. Spontaneous shutdown of the boiler, accompanied by strong noise, occurs due to a non-working pump or fan (explained above). A non-working thermostat causes the water to boil, followed by the flame breaking off.

Diagnostics is the surest way to understand the reason for the attenuation of a gas boiler.

If the voltage in the network fluctuates and decreases, the boiler burner may go out - the automation is activated, which recognizes the low voltage. After the power is restored to normal, the protection turns the boiler back on, so most of these cases go unnoticed. However, unstable voltage has a negative impact on the operation of electronic protection systems.

And a very obvious reason for the burner to go out is low gas pressure in the line. This trouble can happen not only due to breakdowns in the external gas pipeline, but also due to internal problems.

1. There is a malfunction in the gas meter. Check visually whether the mechanism is working and whether the numbers on the display are jumping. Even if this is the case, the malfunction may be delayed - and the meter is often noisy.
2. Gas workers require the installation of monitoring equipment - gas leakage sensors and temperature sensors. They monitor compliance with the regimes around the boiler. When the sensors are triggered, the boiler turns off.
3. The connections in the gas pipeline are leaky. A gas leak means low pressure, so the automation reacts immediately and the boiler turns off. If there is no leak sensor, then this type of malfunction is determined by the smell of gas. To identify the malfunction and eliminate it, check the joints on the line by applying soap foam - if there is a leak, the foam will bubble.

Blowing out the wick is the most common reason why a boiler goes out.

External factors

Why is there poor draft in the stove if it is built correctly and the chimneys have recently been cleaned?
In addition to the above reasons, stove draft depends on external environmental factors and weather. The most common of them:

• improper ventilation in the house,
• fluctuations in temperature and humidity outside,
• wind and other climatic factors.

Let us consider in more detail what we have to do in these cases.

Ventilation failure

The influx of fresh air helps to establish the required pressure difference in the stove and chimney. If the house is cold and the stove has not been fired for a long time, this difference is minimal. And the lack of air in the combustion room can create a temporary vacuum in the room and provoke reverse draft. On the other hand, excessive drafts are also unfavorable, since vortex air flows can disrupt the air flow into the firebox and disrupt proper draft.

This is often observed in the summer, and also if the windows are located above the firebox level, in this case it will be easier for the hot air to change direction towards the exhaust through the window. You need to be especially careful with gas stoves; there is a danger of not only changing the direction of draft, but also extinguishing the burner and filling the room with gas.

Before the first attempts to light the stove, it is necessary to check not only the draft in the firebox, but also the air movement in the room, and when using the stove, constantly monitor the ventilation. This is also necessary to prevent carbon monoxide poisoning.

Strong wind

Gusts of strong wind may temporarily prevent smoke from escaping from the chimney. With such a disruption of the flow of hot gas, the thrust may work in the opposite direction. This happens more often with chimneys connected directly to the firebox without passing through heating wells.

The situation in the wind is also worsened by the horizontal location of the pipe exit, which is often used in the utility rooms of the lower floors of the house (exit through the wall).

Protection from the prevailing winds in a given area is provided with the help of pipe caps, “smoke chambers” or “wind vanes”. They also prevent getting wet during rain and snow. The humidity of the outside air is another obstacle to good traction.

Installing a chimney will solve the problem

High humidity

This factor is indirect, but no less unpleasant. High humidity in the external air can form due to low atmospheric pressure, which already reduces draft. The increased density of the humid surrounding atmosphere reduces rarefaction and impairs the movement of smoke.

It is easy to notice that during rain and snow, smoke reluctantly comes out of the chimney, spreads along the roof, and with every gust of wind escapes through the stove door into the room. And vice versa, in clear dry weather the draft is excellent and the smoke rises to the sky. Finally, with high humidity in winter, a dense coating of frost forms in the pipe, which sharply reduces the cross-section and prevents the normal release of gases.

In this situation, you will have to clean the chimney frequently.